Brakes binding 74 CS

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2002turbo

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Last year I had a problem with brakes binding and it seemed to be the front left (that one was getting hot). I overhauled that corner (the rotor was a bit warped) and I thought I had it licked. But this year I now seem to have a similar problem with the right rear which is getting hot ... but all the wheels are pretty warm. When this happens, usually low speed in town, the car almost slows to a crawl. After a while, esp on the open road, the brakes seem to release and the drag goes away. Where do I start? I know this can happen in my Ferrari 308 if the MC pushrod is not adjusted to the exact right length. Could it be that?
 
@Stevehose had a similar issue when the brake booster was replaced.

Brake problems - Hot Wheels edition

Just recently my brakes are acting up, car is fine for a couple miles then the odor of burning brake pad material starts, then the car wants to brake by itself when coasting. I suspect the brakes somewhere are being slightly applied by something. Here's where I am: New master cylinder Rebuilt...
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Given the amount of autonomous braking (car will almost come to a standstill and will not respond to application of the throttle), the fact that all 4 wheels are hottish to the touch, and the fact that it seems to happen intermittently after light application of the brakes in town, but not at all on the open road, I am suspecting it's all 4 wheels and that points to the booster pushrod issue that Stevehose experienced. But yes, new brake hoses all round are also on the menu (if you have to bleed the brakes, may as well do it all at the same time). I suppose it could also be a vacuum leak given that we haven't replaced the MC or booster recently, these were both replaced about 10 years ago.
 
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Sorry I misread, if it's all wheels then yes, either the brake booster/MC clearance is off, or perhaps your MC is failing by not retracting fully.
 
Replace the brake lines! Almost certainly they are bloated/constricted, especially if original (or old.) And while you’re at it, replace the clutch hose.
 
I backed off the two nuts that secure the MC to the booster a turn each side, and the problem seems to have gone away (driven it twice now). Puzzle is how that pushrod got longer? If anything, it should get shorter over time.
 
Not longer, but closer? Check linkage to pedal for any binding, worn pivots...anything that would restrict smooth full pedal return.
 
That's the first thing I did. I am pretty sure the problem is the clearance of the pushrod that enters the MC. I am going to take the MC all the way off and remove one shim from behind the pusher thingie.
 
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