C Pillar roundels
- Thread starter RTHLSS1
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first set on the Left side (top and bottom) is chromed copper and enamel, original old ones, i would say difficult/impossible to improve, but they look decent enough, i would only use some steel wool over them using a polishing paste by hand
second sent is modern repros, they look good enough like they are
my 5 €.cents
second sent is modern repros, they look good enough like they are
my 5 €.cents
my guess is that they will be difficult to restore, enamel is sort of cristalized stuff, thus it is brittle, and near impossible to add material to it, they will paint badly and i can not think of other method
choices maybe, get better ones / live with what you have now
It looks like your original ones were damaged during removal at some point. The copper base flexed and broke the glass.
This guy's page says he can do it. I don't know if it makes economic sense as it's quite intensive. I do know that good ones are quite rare and expensive now. The plating will have to be removed from the copper, then the glass where it's been broken (perhaps all of it, I don't know). Once the metal substrate is back in its proper shape, new glass will be added and the roundel fired. Then it will be cleaned and plated.
This is from his FAQ.
These enameled emblems are often, incorrectly, referred to as cloisonné. Cloisonné is an enamel process in which separate bands of metal are bent then applied to a base. These labor intensive bands encase the enamel and create the design. I have yet to see an automobile emblem done with cloisonné. The process that is used is called champlevé (pronounced shomp´-leh-vay).
The champlevé technique involves applying enamel into depressions in the base metal. These depressions may be etched, engraved or, in the case of automobile emblems, die stamped. The stamping process can also include the beautiful design work that shows under transparent enamels.
Historically the word enamel meant glass but today it seems to refer to any shiny color. The correct terminology is vitreous [glass] enamel. It is a true glass that melts and fuses around 1400 degrees F.
Enamel can be obtained as opaque, translucent or transparent. The colors are created by the addition of metallic oxides to the glass. The most common form is ground to #80 mesh and looks like colored granulated sugar. These enamels are formulated to molecularly bond with copper, silver and gold.
This guy's page says he can do it. I don't know if it makes economic sense as it's quite intensive. I do know that good ones are quite rare and expensive now. The plating will have to be removed from the copper, then the glass where it's been broken (perhaps all of it, I don't know). Once the metal substrate is back in its proper shape, new glass will be added and the roundel fired. Then it will be cleaned and plated.
Home Page
Check out http://maxwellenamels.com! Repair and restoration of enamel and classic or antique automobile emblems and badges
www.maxwellenamels.com
This is from his FAQ.
These enameled emblems are often, incorrectly, referred to as cloisonné. Cloisonné is an enamel process in which separate bands of metal are bent then applied to a base. These labor intensive bands encase the enamel and create the design. I have yet to see an automobile emblem done with cloisonné. The process that is used is called champlevé (pronounced shomp´-leh-vay).
The champlevé technique involves applying enamel into depressions in the base metal. These depressions may be etched, engraved or, in the case of automobile emblems, die stamped. The stamping process can also include the beautiful design work that shows under transparent enamels.
Historically the word enamel meant glass but today it seems to refer to any shiny color. The correct terminology is vitreous [glass] enamel. It is a true glass that melts and fuses around 1400 degrees F.
Enamel can be obtained as opaque, translucent or transparent. The colors are created by the addition of metallic oxides to the glass. The most common form is ground to #80 mesh and looks like colored granulated sugar. These enamels are formulated to molecularly bond with copper, silver and gold.
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No heat, just doing what @deQuincey mentioned with paste and steel wool. I was using 3K sandpaper, which does leave small scratches.
I recommend that folks who are skeptical about fixing these watch the “Repair Shop” on netflix.
You would be surprised to learn what you can do with epoxy paste and paint.
Your other option is to repair with epoxy. I've seen tinted epoxy used for similar applications and think it would work on the black background quite well.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
I was under the impression that an "enamel" (at least in the world of paint) was a material that cured by oxidation, rather than catalyst (urethanes) or evaporation of solvent (lacquers). But this is from the department of useless information, where I keep a lot of my thorts.
Here's what Wikipedia says about enamel paints. Basically, enamel = oil, but with many variants since it's not an exact term.
For our cars, only the C pillar roundels are vitreous enamel, aka fired glass on copper.
The others are paint on aluminum, or plastic reproductions. Wheels have printed decals for the hubcaps, or paint, depending on what you have.
For our cars, only the C pillar roundels are vitreous enamel, aka fired glass on copper.
The others are paint on aluminum, or plastic reproductions. Wheels have printed decals for the hubcaps, or paint, depending on what you have.