Cam chain - 3.0 csi

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Knut

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Hello, I am about to replace the timing chain, and have also bought a rep. set for the tensioner. Would anybody recommend that I change the cam and crank sprocket as well ?. If so, how difficult is this, and could it be done without removing the engine?
 
I would imagine it would be quite difficult to change the timing chain with the engine in the car, since you have to remove the crank nut, among a host of other things. (including the water pump, may as well replace that while you are at it, and the oil pump, if you want)
 
Cam and crank chain

Unless starved for oil, you're hardened tooth sprockets should last several chain changeout requirements. Visual inspection of WORN or compromised sprockets will reveal an uneven assymetric tooth profile from the side. A simple shiny surface on the working side of your sprockets is no need for concern.

Good luck!
 
Timing change

My suggestions, having done it some months back.

do it with the engine in the car. remove the center grill and left side also

need 1/2" impact hammer and 36mm socket to remove crank nut, lock engine at ring gear, trans in 4th or reverse, wheels on the ground and handbrake set

cam gear unlikely to be worn

change timing chain, upper and lower cover gaskets, and crankshaft seal through lower cover; water pump and gasket optional since it can be done separately later. If WP removed, reinstall with new gasket.

Leave oil pump alone unless pressure is low. If change pump, sump has to come off, requiring to raise engine somewhat (loosen one or more mounts). Crank must be in corect position to remove sump; clean mating faces prior to reinstall with new seal. If you take out the sump, might as well change the rod bearings. Although rod bolts are supposed to be single use only, most will re-use them rather than replace.

Overal the job is not difficult but it is time-consuming. Clean it all real nice and it will go back together more easily and look better when you're done.
 
One more thing about the water pump

Remove the bolts very gently, the 6mm bolts like to break off. If one snaps it's not big thing, a little PERMATEX or similar will bridge things. If two adjacent bolts snap, y'all got trouble.

CLEAN the bolt threads once they're out
USE ANTI-SEIZE on the bolts before you send 'em back in
CLEAN the holes with a tap before you bolt a new pump on
pay attention to torque values specified, these are only 6mm after all

that's it
 
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