Thank you Chris. Now just to make sure, could there be any other clear wires going to the coil? Or is this it the only possibility? I wish I knew where this part of the loom goes to so I can measure the resistance between the two ends.
Car ran perfectly, two weeks later it won't start.
- Thread starter Bmachine
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Thank you Chris. Now just to make sure, could there be any other clear wires going to the coil? Or is this it the only possibility? I wish I knew where this part of the loom goes to so I can measure the resistance between the two ends.
When I had the mech pump and stock zeniths I never had any cranking problems after a long sit so it can be done. Before going through the ordeal of an electric fuel pump install, which is more work than it sounds, why not just put a check valve in and see if that solves the problem? Did you confirm all fuel lines are tight?
Ask someone to send you a 1974 wiring diagram or search the forum, perhaps that will show you the other end.
ran perfectly...
+1 on the check valve in the fuel line. A different car when it has fuel near to the pump. Try it. Mike
+1 on the check valve in the fuel line. A different car when it has fuel near to the pump. Try it. Mike
Check valve idea sounds great. Will search the forum for more info on which one to buy and all that.
Thank you.
Thank you.
There is
only one clear resistance wire. It looks similar, but is of a different alloy that creates the resistance.
Simply measure the voltage and compare to the battery voltage.
it connects to the green wire to the ignition switch at a junction shown in the repair manual.
One more thing on the fuel pump drain back- The single most likely culprit is a loose carb fuel inlet valve that needs tightened. Find a fuel gauge that reads 0-5 lbs ( pool filter at your local ace in a pinch. I used a mighty- vac) . Temp it in and fire it up.
The pump should put out 2.5 lbs. It wears internal at it's fulcrum point.
It should hold residual pressure ( for a while) after shut off. If not then pinch off one carb fuel line to see if the other carb is the leaking culprit. Then do the other. The factory had a little set-up with valves for this.
only one clear resistance wire. It looks similar, but is of a different alloy that creates the resistance.
Simply measure the voltage and compare to the battery voltage.
it connects to the green wire to the ignition switch at a junction shown in the repair manual.
One more thing on the fuel pump drain back- The single most likely culprit is a loose carb fuel inlet valve that needs tightened. Find a fuel gauge that reads 0-5 lbs ( pool filter at your local ace in a pinch. I used a mighty- vac) . Temp it in and fire it up.
The pump should put out 2.5 lbs. It wears internal at it's fulcrum point.
It should hold residual pressure ( for a while) after shut off. If not then pinch off one carb fuel line to see if the other carb is the leaking culprit. Then do the other. The factory had a little set-up with valves for this.
@chris. Just checked the blue book. It does show a SW-RT line as well as a TR one going to the coil on page 61-0/49. That's exactly it. And the TR one says 0.9 ohms / meter. I wouldn't be surprised if it was 2 meters so that would be 1.8 ohms. DOH ! Should have looked at that first. Now it becomes clear. Or TR as the manual says.... ;-)