Sorry, its been a rough day for such a routine task. Calling Ireland in the morning for the spin-on conversion.
Changing the oil should not be this damn hard !
- Thread starter David
- Start date
oldcoupe - do you know which of the gaskets in this image is the correct one for a 3.0 M30?
I am guessing you're referring to reassembly? Make sure the spring components are all there and holding the filter against the mounting bracket (they probably are which is making it difficult to fit - just asking because when I got my car the PO's mechanic didn't bother with these critical pieces).
Either get someone to pull the unit into place from above while you bolt it in or if alone you pull it up and clamp it temporarily in place with a couple small vice grips, then go back underneath to bolt.
Either get someone to pull the unit into place from above while you bolt it in or if alone you pull it up and clamp it temporarily in place with a couple small vice grips, then go back underneath to bolt.
I ended up removing the unit from the block.
Tierfreund
Well-Known Member
I have the E28 top bolt filter. Changing the oil now takes no more than 15 minutes (most of that time is watching the oil out of the drain). Don´t even have to take the under floor trim of.
The filter element is cheaper and more readily available too. And foolproof (I´m clumsy...)
The filter element is cheaper and more readily available too. And foolproof (I´m clumsy...)
Tierfreund
Well-Known Member
2 or 12 will work. 3 will not.oldcoupe - do you know which of the gaskets in this image is the correct one for a 3.0 M30?
Top bolt canister and plastic zip-loc baggie to catch any spills when removing.
Just ordered the e28 kit from Mesa. ~$150 new. Seemed like a better solution than the Ireland spin-on adapter for $100.
Gasket for Filter
I used the gasket from an E3/E9 set I had, corresponding to 1. Looking at http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/11421730264/ I see that the gasket specified for the E9 M30 corresponding to 1 in your post is also used on the E28 535, which is where my filter body came from. I also just checked the footprint of the original E9 filter mount against the block with a spare E28 (oil cooler version) one I have, and they are identical, so the gasket shown as 1 should be alright for both the original E9 and later E28 filter mount.
Presumably I checked the gasket's match when I installed the E28 filter mount, but that was a few years ago. So far, no strange noises from the engine.
I used the gasket from an E3/E9 set I had, corresponding to 1. Looking at http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/11421730264/ I see that the gasket specified for the E9 M30 corresponding to 1 in your post is also used on the E28 535, which is where my filter body came from. I also just checked the footprint of the original E9 filter mount against the block with a spare E28 (oil cooler version) one I have, and they are identical, so the gasket shown as 1 should be alright for both the original E9 and later E28 filter mount.
Presumably I checked the gasket's match when I installed the E28 filter mount, but that was a few years ago. So far, no strange noises from the engine.
71-2800 CS
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Oil filter
I had someone do my tune up as well as an oil change. When I got home I had oil spitting out from under the car. I looked at the canister and saw there was a gap. It appeared that the rubber ring was pinched and it didn't get a tight seal. I loosened the bottom bolt and retightened and got a nice tight fit. I took care of the major leak but still have a small drip that develops into a little puddle under my car after a week. Prior to this I had no leaks. The oil change was done with a synthetic blend. Now I wonder if the leak is due to a not having a tight seal or a synthetic blend being used for the first time on a 40 year old car. Thoughts anybody?
I had someone do my tune up as well as an oil change. When I got home I had oil spitting out from under the car. I looked at the canister and saw there was a gap. It appeared that the rubber ring was pinched and it didn't get a tight seal. I loosened the bottom bolt and retightened and got a nice tight fit. I took care of the major leak but still have a small drip that develops into a little puddle under my car after a week. Prior to this I had no leaks. The oil change was done with a synthetic blend. Now I wonder if the leak is due to a not having a tight seal or a synthetic blend being used for the first time on a 40 year old car. Thoughts anybody?
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The O ring gasket; tight seal. It sometimes tends to roll or gets pinched. The only concern with synthetic is weight. 40 weight or multiblend with a preference for the heavier weight - see your manual. You need all the oil pressure you can get on the cam and rockers.
I use deisel grade oil; it's heavy, it has the additives that are no longer in regular oils for older cars; and cheap.( Valvoline comes to mind as I buy the case or gallons)
The best procedure is to take the bracket off by the four bolts.( HB Chris uses a ziplock bag- I use a small trash can liner; whatever works for you.)
Then you can disassemble, clean, new filter, tighten, reinstall. I can't imagine how hard it would be from under the car with all that's in the way while being upside down. One oldtimer's trick is to cut open the filter to see what's being caught with a light on it to see metal bits.
The tighten part- the can will feel like it sucked up or slid into it's final position. Go slow and wait for the reaction. You'll know. Study the manual with the section view of the oil filter and you'll see what I mean about the final position of the seal. It's possible to deform the can so go slow.
I always wet the filter, meaning pour some oil on it to minimize dry start.
Has anyone ever recreated the stencil on the filter can? Anyone created a rubbing and reverse stencil? New ones come with the stencil?
I use deisel grade oil; it's heavy, it has the additives that are no longer in regular oils for older cars; and cheap.( Valvoline comes to mind as I buy the case or gallons)
The best procedure is to take the bracket off by the four bolts.( HB Chris uses a ziplock bag- I use a small trash can liner; whatever works for you.)
Then you can disassemble, clean, new filter, tighten, reinstall. I can't imagine how hard it would be from under the car with all that's in the way while being upside down. One oldtimer's trick is to cut open the filter to see what's being caught with a light on it to see metal bits.
The tighten part- the can will feel like it sucked up or slid into it's final position. Go slow and wait for the reaction. You'll know. Study the manual with the section view of the oil filter and you'll see what I mean about the final position of the seal. It's possible to deform the can so go slow.
I always wet the filter, meaning pour some oil on it to minimize dry start.
Has anyone ever recreated the stencil on the filter can? Anyone created a rubbing and reverse stencil? New ones come with the stencil?
My $.02:
I loosen the bolt until it is hand-turnable (I have the original bottom bolt style) then triple up small plastic grocery bags and cover it, the handles allow the unit to hang on a bolt or something then I loosen the bolt through the plastic so it can disengage, hang, and drain.
Removal is from above, pushing away wires etc, I also unhook the alternator wires and get them out of the way. It's a sideways/tight fit to clear the engine parts and out.
Like Jerry said its a step by step process for the install. I also coat a new rubber o-ring with a little oil. First assemble everything and get it threaded. I use an extender bar with u-joint socket. Tighten a little bit, check from above. Keep repeating until the canister gets close, then push it in/up from below the last 1/8" or so and tighten slightly, check it's on and fitted correctly then finish it off. New o-ring and metal bolt washer will prevent leaks. I use Castrol 20w50 but am intrigued by Jerry's diesel oil idea.
For the stencil, there is an article on just this in the Register:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...ZmNjNi00MWYwLThmNGUtNTlhNzI5Y2FhMDk4&hl=en_US
I loosen the bolt until it is hand-turnable (I have the original bottom bolt style) then triple up small plastic grocery bags and cover it, the handles allow the unit to hang on a bolt or something then I loosen the bolt through the plastic so it can disengage, hang, and drain.
Removal is from above, pushing away wires etc, I also unhook the alternator wires and get them out of the way. It's a sideways/tight fit to clear the engine parts and out.
Like Jerry said its a step by step process for the install. I also coat a new rubber o-ring with a little oil. First assemble everything and get it threaded. I use an extender bar with u-joint socket. Tighten a little bit, check from above. Keep repeating until the canister gets close, then push it in/up from below the last 1/8" or so and tighten slightly, check it's on and fitted correctly then finish it off. New o-ring and metal bolt washer will prevent leaks. I use Castrol 20w50 but am intrigued by Jerry's diesel oil idea.
For the stencil, there is an article on just this in the Register:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...ZmNjNi00MWYwLThmNGUtNTlhNzI5Y2FhMDk4&hl=en_US
Are you referring to zinc ? CoupeKing and Mesa Performance have supplies of motor oil with the zinc. But its not cheap.
JhwShark
Well-Known Member
...My understanding of the classic v. synth...classic has a larger molecular size compared with the synth. In a car, particularly a classic, the gaskets have been used to absorbing (swelling up) classic. When you add synth, it eventually will replace the absorbed classic within the existing gaskets. Since synth is a smaller molecule it will occupy less space and cause leaking.
I believe that if you are considering a complete rebuilt synth may be an option...I know that a lot of the Porsche folks rebuild then go Royal Purple.
I am still a dino guy.