Chrome

P

poadb

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I have installed a new headliner and will now attach the chrome part (trim) that goes from the a-post to the c-post. Unfortunately, the trim is scratched.

As I understand, the technique they used to get the high shine was something like high-electrical oxidation since the trim is made of aluminium. I have been in touch with some "metal guys" in Sweden that say they can not re-do the oxidation. However, they can polish the trim in order to remove the scratches. However, that will result in natural (air) oxidation after some time; then it need to be polished on a regular basis.

My question is - has anyone experience in fixing aluminium trims (chrome trim) that has been scratched?

Per Osterberg
 
this may sound like a stupip suggestion, but why not polish it, then seal it with a urethane or laquer clear coat?
Has anyone tried that?
 
Not a stupid question at all. But you will not be able bend the trim into place once it has been "painted" with clear. It will crack very easliy. I'm sure some has an answer though.
 
I'm not sure why it needs to be "bent in to place". The overall shape is right, you might need to put a little tension on it to get it fit, but you wouldn't actually be bending it right? I'm trying to recall my experience installing this piece, and I don't think it didn't need much tweaking to get in.
 
You are probably right TJ. I was just assuming that was the case. But if "I" was doing the job with my ape fingers I would bend it and crack the clear for sure! :oops:
 
The beltline trim is brite anodized extruded aluminum, bent to shape by BMW, should fit fine as is. You need to send it to an anodizer who does polishing and brite anodizing, or buy a new set for around a grand from the stealer. Brite anodizing is a nasty chemical process that very few anodizers wil do, but McNichols in Detriot will both polish and brite anodize, and are not as expensive as buying new, but then again it doesnt look quite the same either. Close, but not the same. Find a stealer that gives a CCA discount and buy them for around $800 for the set. Using a rattle can clear coat will not withstand the UV rays and will break down over time. Polsihing and not coating will necessitate constant repolishing, a real PITA.
 
Nope, damn near everything you see that is brite is aluminum, the B pillar plates, the plates along the door openings, the trim around the windshield and rear window, trim between side windows, etc etc. Only acutal chrome is the windwing frames, trim along top of doors, door handles and other small bits. If you are going to restore your car really right, get to know your brite anodizer or dealer really well.
 
Thank you

Thank you very much for your answers.

I might add – the “metal guy” in Sweden informed me that it is possible to add a final chrome layer onto the aluminium. However, he did not like that solution since the chrome layer most likely will crack when the trim is installed (since aluminium is a rather “soft” metal, will bend rather easily).

I might, also, add – the trim part is no longer for sale as a spare part from BMW (Europe). A rather annoying fact since all other parts on my car has been restored to its original condition.
 
If you decide to go down the route of polishing it is possible to add a plasticiser to two part clear coat that gives the lacquer a great deal of flexibility and thus prevent it from cracking. The only problem that I forsee with this is getting the trim back on without marking the laquer as when I recently re-fitted mine they needed a little coaxing with a rubber mallet to get them back on. Only use automotive quality laquer for this as polyurethane laquer gets a yellow tinge over time.
 
Annodizing

Aluminum can be chromed and looks beautiful. The process is called, I believe, electroless nickel plating. Nickel will take more polishing than chrome, but looks as good and will last. The quality and look of the factory annodizing will never be duplicated!!
 
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