CL: '71 2800CS in PA - $11,800

Markos

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NMNA... No engine bay pics...

1971 BMW 2800CS in silver with blue interior. Especially valuable, rare model. Future price increase easily foreseeable. Great engine, Webber twin carburetors, manual transmission, enjoyable drive, vintage plates included. Current, enthusiastic owner had extensive work done on it.

More details on demand.

Priced to sell.
http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/5029772716.html

The images seem to persist after the ad dies, so I'll post them here:
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Once again, not mine, not affiliated:

Hemmings has a glimpse of said money shot:

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That may be a rust on the driver's shock tower. Certainly worth a visit!
 
Hello all.

I've contacted the owner and have a family member going to see the car now. The owner confirmed that there is 'minor' rust in the shock towers.

I wish I had all of your collective experience - is there a way to download it?

James
 
When I went to examine mine in detail, I brought a few tools.

I looked at the rear shock towers as best as I could, and felt for bubbling with my hand, in the trunk. Unless you have it on a lift, you won't be able to see inside the rear shock tower, even if you snap a pic. Do the same with the glove box.

Bring a magnet, check for major bondo/glasswork.

Open the fuse box and stick your head or your camera phone up in there to check on signs of rust.

I removed the outer rocker cover and inspected the rockers (driver's side only). This was my biggest problem area and it was for the most part concealed by the cover.

Poke your fingers around on the floor, feel for soft spots. Do the same thing in the front of the rear wheel arches, and the back of the fronts.

Check the lower quarters for signs of bubbling. Also look for signs of repair to the inner fenders.

Check the metal on the window seal for bubbling. Looks for signs of water damage to the dash, particularly the wood laminate.

Check the spare tire well on bottom and top.
 
All-
I am close to pulling the trigger but there are a few factors which push the value down. The shock towers appear to have surface rust on top but not below. There is also surface rust on the windshield. The car runs well with newer ignition points and a break 'tune up' recently. The block cracked and it has a replacement block. The passenger side was damaged in the past. This is the 6th owner. With no major rust apparent, would you proceed knowing of the replacement block and body work on the passenger side?

"Accident History:
As far as I am aware, the car has been hit from the side. The door and rear were dented, but since have been repaired. The car's frame was not bent. The title is clean.

Milage according to the odometer: ~42'000

There is rust around the windscreen (A-pillars), the bonnet, and the rear mud-guard area. Mechanically, the car is sound. I have not experienced any issues with it since I took it into my possession. It's never failed to start, nor has it ever broken down on me."
 
A replacement block is no big deal, passenger side damage may not be a big deal, depends on how well it was repaired. Do you have a paint magnet to see if there is excesses bondo on the door and side skins? Is the character line still crisp on side of body?

How bad is A pillar rust? I wouldn't worry about surface rust. Are the front fender seems crisp and not separated! Why was the valance under front and rear bumpers painted black? What does it look like at front of rocker covers? Are there rust bubbles forming below A pillars, bottom of front quarter panels?
 
I would personally back away if I weren't looking for a project, if you can see rust on the surface, especially in those areas, there will almost certain be lots, lots more underneath.

But I don't know, of course, I haven't seen the car personally. And if you are looking for a project, it's sure a good starting point.
 
All-
I am close to pulling the trigger but there are a few factors which push the value down. The shock towers appear to have surface rust on top but not below. There is also surface rust on the windshield. The car runs well with newer ignition points and a break 'tune up' recently. The block cracked and it has a replacement block. The passenger side was damaged in the past. This is the 6th owner. With no major rust apparent, would you proceed knowing of the replacement block and body work on the passenger side?

"Accident History:
As far as I am aware, the car has been hit from the side. The door and rear were dented, but since have been repaired. The car's frame was not bent. The title is clean.

Milage according to the odometer: ~42'000

There is rust around the windscreen (A-pillars), the bonnet, and the rear mud-guard area. Mechanically, the car is sound. I have not experienced any issues with it since I took it into my possession. It's never failed to start, nor has it ever broken down on me."

Here is my take, as someone who has a car with public baggage. When you refer to dragging the value down, I assume you mean value and not purchase price. The cheapest you will find any E9 project is around $8K, from what I've seen in the past few months (there are exceptions :)). So the long term value may be affected by your observations but the seller is correct in that the car is priced to sell.

Regarding baggage, you are posting on a forum that the car has damage, six owners, etc. etc. I personally don't see that as an issue, given that the car is 40 years old. Yes it's possible that the rear fender and door skin were replaced. With that said, the shining examples on this forum had the front and rear fenders removed (see Ron's builds).

At the end of the day you are dealing with perception of quality. You could have a single owner treat the car like dirt but a single owner car. Meanwhile, you could have six enthusiasts treat the car with utmost respect over 40 years. This forum has examples of both. Ultimately, perception will prevail however. Unlike a house, someone will use your low purchase price and history to drive down your sale price if/when that happens. Consider it a calculated risk.

Lastly, assume that you will need to strip the paint to address the rust. Either that, or ignore it, only drive it in sunny weather, and store it in a protected area. I'm going with this option for a little while so I can enjoy the car for a moment.
 
If this car checks out, seal the deal ASAP. The interior loos very nice and the engine shot looks original to me with a decent looking air cleaner. I'd much rather have that than a rattle can job.
 
Wise words. The owner is in Switzerland and could not sign off on the title with a notary until August. I asked for a few minutes to think of a better plan (then waiting) and he sold it to someone else for $12500

It's never simple...but I appreciate the insights and advice.
 
Maybe it was for the best. There will be other opportunities . Your evaluation skills will grow, and you'll pull the trigger more confidently when the time comes.
 
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