Cleaning up an engine bay? Repairs?

ccr2002

ccr2002

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I have a 73 3.0CS with supposedly 20K original miles. Anyway, it's driving pretty well but i've had a couple of problems with the carburetors, had my mechanic try a rebuild kit obtained through one of Murrays contacts, and they're running better but idle is still a little erratic. I also have an oil leak from i'm not sure where...maybe timing cover? And i'd like to have the air conditioning gone over.

next month i'm going to La Jolla and thought i'd bring the CS down to Carl Nelson to have him go through it once and repair anything needed and i began wondering what one could do to "clean up" the engine and its bay.

any suggestions of parts you'd replace on an original car? How difficult is it to "detail" the old engine parts? I don't want to get into repainting or anything...are there great "detail" shops who prepare cars for events or such in the san diego area?

thanks
ccr
 
"detailing" old parts

I wouldn't replace anything that was working well.

Carbs are another story, I spent half of last Saturday just playing with synchronizing, using a Unisyn and comparing results to a manometer made from some plastic tubing and a little ATF, and got no improvement. I suspect a vacuum leak in the secondary, but hosing the outside of the carb makes no change in the running. Shoots.

As to cleaning up old parts, heck you can do that yourself. It's nice to have a slow speed bench grinder with a fine stainless steel wire wheel. This will make short work of the patina of age that appears on aluminum parts, at least on those which the wheel can reach. Some steel wool, a small stainless wire brush, spray solvent and a roll of paper kitchen towels. and MOST OF ALL..... elbow grease.

All such advice is useless to someone who expects to pay another person to do this simple work. You don't sound like the person to do such work himself... but Carl will surely give you names of those willing to cash your checks.
 
elbow grease

you are right....i should just get in the garage and do it myself sometime this winter. just like everyone though, one only has so much time.
 
Open the hood, spray the motor, etc. carefully with tire foam, and wipe off the residue. It will look amazing.
 
Cleaning the engine compartment

NO TO TIRE FOAM or other sticky coatings in the engine compartment--they will only serve to make surfaces temporarily shiny and in the process enable capturing most dirt particles within 5 feet or so,

Clean is the trick--not cover up--unfortunately most detail shops will use "stuff' to mask surfaces and cause them to appear nice--like Armorall on the tires routine--a mess everytime you touch them with shoes or clothing--shiny but not a clean natural surface.

I have used about everything available--but have settled on the following as a very desirable and effective method for the BLUMAX's engine room.

Get a mild bio-degradable cleaner that will cut oily deposits (not thick coatings of grease)--remove air box from carbs--cover carbs with plastic bags and rubber band, also distributor--just spray cleaner on all surfaces, stimulate those areas as you go with a throw away paint brush that is small enough to reach all surfaces and then fine water spray-off--wipe down with toweling and check results. If there is still residue--use mineral spirits or use carb cleaner on dried gas residue on carbs only--following same procedure. This process is also safe for under hood painted surfaces within engine compartment as well. After cleaning all painted surfaces use a cleaner-polish or wax on all painted surfaces underhood and future clean up becomes very easy.

If there is degrading of the appearance of aluminum parts the use of the s/s wheel and brush is fine to freshen all of those surfaces. If desired use quality rubber treatment on hoses.

Natural is GOOD!!
 
Playing the devil's advocate here :twisted:

In the UK there are a lot of water soluble engine cleaners available, examples, ones called "Gunk" and another is "Jizer". They are supposed to be environmentally friendly but they do a great job of killing the weeds in the driveway!
On a badly soiled engine bay I have applied either one with a long haired paint brush as per Murray's suggestion and then left it for 1/2 an hour or so.
After that I have taken my steam cleaner and with the pressure as low as it will go and the temperature as high as it will go rinsed the whole thing off.
Works a treat especially if you have to do some major work on an oily and dirty engine.
Words of warning though :shock:
The above will rip any polish, stickers, poorly adhered paint, and wax coatings off any component and or surface! Cleaning fluids can damage plastic components and rubber hoses. Protect anything that might be effected
Sometimes an oily, dirty engine bay is good, stops stuff going rusty and aluminium parts getting that horrible white fur as they corrode.
and finally
When I am really in a hurry (read lazy) I'll just take a steam cleaner to it without the use of chemicals, does a pretty fair job though you have to get into all the nooks and crannies with the lance to dislodge the crud.

Malc
 
I have used Simple Green with impressive results, I cleaned an absolutely grimy bell housing simply by spraying it on undiluted and hosing off. AND... it smells of sassafras :wink:
 
thanks

thanks for the suggestions...i'm going to go at it tonight since i'm assured not to be called in to the hospital (i'm on vacation as far as they are concerned but don't leave for monterey until tomorrow) and i'll see how it goes.

thanks again for everyone's advice
ccr
 
Wurth makes a great product (well, many great products) called Contact and Circuit Board Cleaner. It is a terrific de-greaser, leaves no residue and does not harm paint. It is a bit pricey but well worth (wurth?) it.
 
Great thread guys! I'm goint to be starting on the engine bay tomorrow, wish me luck!!

Check my thread out for photo updates over the weekend,

o :)
 
I have used Simple Green on the Elephant Skin in the trunk/boot and it took years of crud off without harming the elephant.

I have also used Wurth to clean the contacts in my 1950s Zenith Transoceanic Radio. It works. And leaves nothing behind.

I like the look of the black valve cover but did any coupe ever come from the Fatherland with one?

And for those of you still conscious, a friend here in Bucks County just bought a 2500/Bavaria , 1972. Keep reading. It is a time capsule. -50K on the odo. A perfect! light grey cloth interior, and, music up, Right Hand Drive. Malaga/Burgandy

Untouched except for a HUGE "California Sunroof" with a sliding canvas?? black roof. It is huge. Makes it feel like a convertible. A very professional installation.

I remember seeing the CA in another car but can't remember the make or model, factory or aftermarket. Any one know?

Steve
 
oneills said:
I like the look of the black valve cover but did any coupe ever come from the Fatherland with one?



Untouched except for a HUGE "California Sunroof" with a sliding canvas?? black roof. It is huge. Makes it feel like a convertible. A very professional installation.

I remember seeing the CA in another car but can't remember the make or model, factory or aftermarket. Any one know?

Steve
Click to expand...
No original black valve covers.

Sunroof is probably a Webasto. They seem to be popular in England.
 
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