Clutch & flywheel feedback request

hans3

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Hello,

I just pulled the 4-speed on my '70 2800 in order to replace a leaky front seal. Since the incremental work was minimal, I proceeded to pull the clutch disc in order to diagnose a 1st gear "chatter" or slippage. The car exhibits this starting out, but never slips in higher gears. The clutch engages only at the very top of pedal travel, but disengages around mid-pedal-travel. It has only 39K on the clock, and there's no evidence the clutch/p-plate have been replaced.

Two of my clutch disc images are attached below. After pulling the F&S disc I measured it against the factory specs (wear & runout). It passed with a .36" thk and .008" runout. However, I could easily compress the outer and inner friction plates by .04". That is, when I pinch the disc it readily compresses, as if the rivets have stretched. The specs allow for this .04" compression but only under a 600 kg load. No cracks apparent / springs intact. There was no oil from the leaky tranny on the disc.

The pressure plate has no apparent flaws. However, when placing a ruler across its surface I can see minor gaps in spots. Factory manual says it must be perfectly flat, but I couldn't find a tolerance on this "flatness."

Finally, my exposed flywheel has cocentric ridges near the outer circumference. It too showed small gaps with a ruler pressed against it. Oddly, the ridges cover only half of the clutch disc's mating area.

So the questions:

1. What's the spec for acceptable clutch disc and flywheel "flatness"? My micrometer is too small to measure thicknesses near the center of said parts.

2. What caused the ridges in only part of the flywheel’s mating surface (out of curiosity)?

3. For the clutch chatter issue, is the root cause the flywheel ridges, the clutch disc "compressibility," or both?

4. I figure the flywheel should be skimmed, but is the clutch disc shot?


Looking forward to some discussion. Thanks, -H
 

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Hans
Are you sure that it has only 39k miles. From the pics I would judge much more, it is burnt and polished.
The manual states absolute flat for the flywheel and pressure plate, therefore that means perfectly flat, no other answer. No gaps.
My clutch/p plate and flywheel looked much better than yours before I replaced all. Mileage was well above 150k miles
Since you are there it is time to replace all parts and have the flywheel turned.
I would also replace your rear main bearing seal, pilot bearing, throw out bearing.
Get a Sachs clutch and p plate, just my preference.
Don't skimp, do it once with quality parts, it will last your lifetime of ownership!
Total cost for all of the above would be $500 +/ -, not including labor and machinist.
I am sure others will have differing advice, but this is my $.02
hth
steve
 
I am not sure what you mean by "skimming" the flywheel but in my experience turning a flywheel is risky. The cutting tool chatters on hot spots and produces an irregular surface.
The best method is to have it centerless ground. This method produces a very nice surface. Furthermore, if memory serves me, 9mm(0.36") is the lower limit of wear?
I also agree with Steve in Reno.
 
Thank you both for the helpful responses. I do believe the car to have the stated mileage based upon the body condition and prior owner's testimony (ref VIN # XXX13 on the registry). Granted, the clutch clearly has some wear issues. I rechecked and my manual states the minimum thickness to be .307".

The option to replace the rear bearing seal poses an interesting challenge. With the bell housing removed I currently have the rear of the oil pan supported by a jack and wooden block. Rear seal replacement requires the oil pan to be lowered (preferably). I'm guessing I'd have to obtain an engine hoist to support it from above in order to lower the pan.

-H
 
Pry out the seal and tap in a new one. Forget the oil pan, forget the gasket behind the seal carrier. Not even close to being worth it. I have never seen a leaking rear gasket no matter how many miles on the engine. If you *need* to replace the oil pan gasket then jack up the engine 2 1/2" and put wooden blocks under the motor mounts. Make sure # 6 piston is at TDC and you can remove the oil pan.
 
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