Clutch Issue

[RDSChicago]

I just started the engine of my coupe for the first time since last summer. It fired right up. But lo and behold, when I push the clutch pedal, there is no resistance and it will not engage or permit me to shift into gear. I am not very mechanical. Could this be something as simple as needing some clutch fluid, or do I have a more mechanical issue? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[bavbob]

Check your garage floor for brake fluid near the transmission. Also check the break fluid reservoir, bet it's only about 1/2 full.

The clutch slave uses brake fluid and the brake fluid reservoir has a safety built in such that when the clutch slave cylinder leaks, the brake fluid only drains to a certain level, below what feeds the clutch. This way you still have brakes.

You will need a new clutch slave cylinder which is cheap and easy to do yourself, there is a YouTube video on bleeding it. A temp fix if needed, is to just fill the reservoir with BF again and pending leak size, you can get some mileage before you lose the clutch again.

Seal on slave cylinder gets dry and cracks, classic for me anyway, car sitting in the winter and then on the first outing, the slave cylinder is leaking.

 

[RDSChicago]

Thanks Bob. I’ll check the brake fluid reservoir and report back!

 

[lloyd]

Seal on slave cylinder gets dry and cracks, classic for me anyway, car sitting in the winter and then on the first outing, the slave cylinder is leaking.

Most brake fluids absorb water, which is a major reason for periodically purging brake fluid. If moisture is permitted to collect (undisturbed) in either the slave cylinder or master cylinder, both of which are typically of cast iron composition, the internal cylinder surface can corrode and thereby prevent even new or otherwise decent seals from functioning. Whatever the cause, (seals or cylinder imperfections) if either the clutch master or slave cylinder are compromised so that one or both fail to develop hydraulic pressure, leakage can also be internal, so that you may not notice any external leakage. Similarly, what you describe may be symptomatic of air in the system. The first approach might be as simple as repeatedly engaging the clutch pedal to see if some pressure develops. This may not be a permanent or a reliable fix, but - occasionally - it may result in a clutch that works - for a while. The next step might be, as bavbob suggests, to try bleeding the system and determine what part of the system is not functioning.


Not exactly the same system employed with E3/E9, but a fair example.