Clutch linkage mystery

taylorcom

taylorcom

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Hi all,

I was driving in town when the clutch pedal began acting oddly (the pedal would return to a higher position than usual, tho the clutch engagement point hadn't seemed to change). A few blocks later, the connecting rod that bolts onto the clutch pedal and pushes on the clutch master cylinder came lose. The rod's rounded end had popped out of the indentation in the master cylinder piston.

Does anyone have ideas on the cause and cure?

I'm hoping it's a linkage issue and not a failure of the clutch itself, since the clutch still seems to be engaged (i.e., I can't shift gears when the motor is running).

Many thanks.
 
Sounds like you may have broke the clutch master retaining ring (circlip) that holds the bushing that holds the ball at the end of the shaft.

Can you still depress the clutch all the way in? or does the shaft no longer go back inside the piston?
 
Sven,

I think you're probly right. I've put the ball-end of the rod back into the depression on the master cylinder piston, and then manually depressed the clutch pedal. It seemed to push the piston into the master cylinder correctly.

And I found what must be the bushing you mention: a washer-like piece with a cut-out that could fit over the rod, and then be locked in place by the circlip. But I've looked carefully and have found no circlip, or circlip pieces.

Do you know of a source for the circlip?

Thanks.
 
Sorry, I can't help there. You might give Carl Nelson a call at LaJolla. They might know the size and perhaps have one.
 
I think a new circlip comes with a rebuild kit. I recently rebuilt my 2800 CS clutch master cylinder with a kit from Mesa Performance. I am pretty sure a new circlip came with it. If you don't want to buy a complete kit, you can have my old one if I can find it and if it fits your clutch master.
 
Are you sure it's not the rod that parted in two where the threads end?

I had exactly the same story on my fjord E3 in April. Exchanged the rod with a spare one, mounted a new service kit and end of story. Worked beautifully.

Cheers
Anders
 
Gwittman: Thanks. I've pm'd you my mailing address. If you don't receive the msg., please let me know. The car is a '72 3.0 CS, and its master looks exactly like the master on my '70 2800CS.

Anders: Yes, the rod is intact.
 
The pics are very helpful, deQuincey, thanks. I clearly see the retaining bushing (which I have) and the circlip (mine of which seems to have dissappeared ... I've pulled up the rugs, etc.).

When you reinstalled the push rod, did you grease the bushing or rod-end?
 
taylorcom said:
The pics are very helpful, deQuincey, thanks. I clearly see the retaining bushing (which I have) and the circlip (mine of which seems to have dissappeared ... I've pulled up the rugs, etc.).

When you reinstalled the push rod, did you grease the bushing or rod-end?
Click to expand...

you are welcome !
i can not identify the parts you mention, but as a simple rule of thumb, do not grease any of the pieces that are internal to the cylinders, and on the contrary yes, grease those moving elements that stay outside
regards
 
deQuincey: That makes sense, since petroleum corrodes rubber.

I may have to remove the cylinder to get good access (once I locate a new circlip). Is there a trick to removing the lines that feed the fluid into the cylinder?
 
taylorcom said:
deQuincey: That makes sense, since petroleum corrodes rubber.

I may have to remove the cylinder to get good access (once I locate a new circlip). Is there a trick to removing the lines that feed the fluid into the cylinder?
Click to expand...

the first question is whether you have the same setup as mine, if yes:

1- for the master cyl, removing the lines is a simple task, just pull, but i recommend to remove first the end that links to the reservoir, once this end is free you can easily remove the end that feds the master cyl by swinging and puylling, installation is another issue, normally a PITA, you should find a replacement for the rubber that seals the line end onto the cyl, well to introduce this is very complicate just gently swinging and pushing until it fits

again in the master cyl you will find the line that goes to the slave cyl, this is easy to remove, if it is old and drty, normally corroded and blocked, i reccomend first to spray some penetrating oil

2- for the slave cyl, there is only the line that comes from the master cyl, again penetrating oil will help

take care with the brake fluid, it is corrosive and damages the paint
 
Thanks to gwittman, who mailed me a spare circlip from his 2800CS, my 3.0CS is back in action. The vintage circlip snapped in perfectly and the clutch works again!
 
Glad to be of assistance.

Vintage is right. I think it was the original C-clip that was installed in my Coupe from the factory. Fortunately, it was still in good condition.
 
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