Clutch master and slave - 73 3.0CS - Turkis

ajwicks

ajwicks

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Greetings Gents,

Need some advice re - Clutch Slave and master:

Slave is gone - pedal to the floor - with a good leak just North of the fire wall.

Looking to replace both Slave (and master ).. why not - I hear it is the recomended approach.

Anyone have some advise and suggestions on the best way to attack this. Also looking for a lead on both New and Old - New seems steep - however - I would lean towards new.

Cheers adam thanks Adam.
 
Bill Riblett

Bill Riblett

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Replacing clutch master and slave cylinders

Good luck with the search...

Here are some tips (this ought to be a FAQ)

Buy new parts, especially the master cylinder. You are not going to want to do that job again. Take the driver seat out so you have more room to work in the footwell.

Actually, your first task should be to spray the fasteners and the slave cylinder with a good penetrating oil (NOT WD40) like PB Blaster or if you can get them, professional products like Kroil, Wurth Rost-off or BG Inforce.

It is probably helpful to have a second person to get the master cylinder bolts and nuts off.

Remove both circlips holding the slave cylinder in place before you try to remove it. You may have to use brute force (hammer) to get it free.

Install the feed tube that goes to the reservoir onto the master before you install that on the car.

Where to buy parts? The slave cylinders are NLA. Mesa Performance has a kit to adapt a later slave cylinder:
http://www.mesaperformance.com/web_...tchhy.html&category=yes&cart_id=4400794.28238

Did I leave anything out?
 
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pamp

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Rust

That Kroil product is some good stuff, we use it a lot in the marine environment. But man the smell is nasty, takes quite awhile to go away! I used it to assist in freeing up a seized sunroof cable, that was months ago and I can still smell it in the cabin.
 
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