clutch master cylinder - original?

[autokunst]

Just pulled the clutch master cylinder. I had assumed it would be an Ate unit, but it appears to be FAS. Anyone know if this would be original equipment, or a replacement somewhere along the decades? Ultimately, I plan on rebuilding it. But I need to know what I am dealing with before searching for the parts kit. Thanks!

 

[Thomas76]

Both my 1970 and 74 were ATE's if it helps, check the bore before you order rebuild kit. If there's heavy pitting you may find that new seals don't fix it.

 

[autokunst]

Absolutely - haven't opened it up yet to check the condition of the cylinder. It seems new ones, if they are available, cost as much as I paid for the car (not quite).

 

[Thomas76]

Absolutely - haven't opened it up yet to check the condition of the cylinder. It seems new ones, if they are available, cost as much as I paid for the car (not quite).

I got lucky with mine, but went down this rabbit hole 3 weeks ago. If you search the forum you'll find some convincing alternatives for less than $100!! The one I planned to use if I had to was the 2002 master cylinder, only difference I could see was a topside connection for the hose. This seemed worth the risk at nearly 1/4 of the cost and readily available through Rock auto.

 

[autokunst]

I opened it up and the bore is as smooth as glass. Seems worthwhile to rebuild. I had the name wrong, it is an FAG unit. 19.05mm bore. I just found a minor rebuild kit (just the rubber parts) for $5.00. I am going to take a chance on this guy and see if I can't make it as good as new. The inner aluminum parts are in wonderful shape. Worst case, I have to replace it with an alternative part later. (still have to clean it up quite a bit, and I definitely need a new line from the master to the slave)

 

[Thomas76]

Then you'll probably be fine, great news!
PS- Chose a day when you're feeling extra patient to put that thing back in the car!

 

[autokunst]

Then you'll probably be fine, great news!
PS- Chose a day when you're feeling extra patient to put that thing back in the car!

Ha ha - I am in the process of full disassembly so I can dip the chassis. I am embarrassed to say that it took me about three days (maybe more) to get the pedal box and all of its peripherals out of the car. This master cylinder was a part of that, for sure. Right now I am stuck (pun intended) on the clutch slave cylinder. It is the type that fits in a hole on the bell housing - not a bolt on. I've removed the snap rings, but it has corrosion welded itself in there. Another day, when I have more patience, I will try some heat and a larger tool (AKA hammer). I think I will definitely be replacing the slave with a new unit. It seems to be the same one that would be found in a 2002 and are available for $100 or less.

 

[HB Chris]

Lots of penetrant and a large vise grip pair of pliers, use heat last.

 

[jmackro]

I will try some heat and a larger tool (AKA hammer).

Yes to the heat but NO to the hammer - that can fracture the hoop on the bellhousing that the slave fits into. Use penetrating oil for a few days, then apply heat, then try twisting it with the vise grips that Chris recommends. Once it turns a bit, the rust will loosen, and you should be able to push it out.

 

[autokunst]

Lots of penetrant

Use penetrating oil for a few days

I sprayed it down with penetrating oil today, and will give it some time to work. Funny, because I just put a can of Aerokroil in my shopping cart this morning. I am just about out of the PB Blaster I've been using. Thank you for the advice and encouragement. It will come out.