OK, the bolts mounting the master to the bulkhead haven't been touched in 42 years, any tips on removing? My open -end and box- ends don't get a good grip...Grind a socket to get a good fit? Thanks for any help.
Clutch master removal
- Thread starter bill
- Start date
Well, getting to the bottom bolt is next to impossible unless you have a lift, which I don't. So out with the Sawzall, cut the master cyl out, and viola! Plenty 'o room to install the new master which is always easier, new clean bolts, don't need 10 tons of torque on them, etc. Getting the starter out is a piece of cake compared to the clutch master....
inovermyhead
Well-Known Member
Bill, mine needs replacing too, what are you going to use to replace yours with?
Cheers John
Cheers John
Inovermyhead: I bought a replacement from BMW years ago I presume when they were still affordable.
Got the new clutch master installed finally, not easy. I have a late '74. Instead of a coil spring pulling on the clutch pedal, there is a rather stout coil spring assembly that is parallel with the cylinder push rod, butting up against the interior firewall that compresses when you depress the pedal. I can push the pedal to the floor and the pedal goes over-center (I haven't bled the clutch yet.) I presume when it is bled, the pedal won't go over-center? Is this right? Do I need to adjust the push-rod length ( it was the same length as the old one...)?
Rod should be same length, fill it with fluid, push gently then bleed.
THE DISTANCE IS THE SAME I JUST DID MINE ALSO.
RIGHT
JUST OPEN THE LOWER BEED SCREW AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES
MOST LIKIELY IT WILL GRAVITY BLEED EASILY THE ONCE IT DRIPS FOR A WHILE PUT HOSE ON IT SO ITS HIGHER THEN PUMP A FEW TIMES INTAO A BOTTLE AND YOUR DONE
WORKS EVERY TIME PEDAL WILL STILL GO TO FLOOR
AND THE SPRING STAYS IN PLACE
I JUST PULL THE PEDAL BACK SET IT IN THE GROOVE AND ALL DONE
RIGHT
JUST OPEN THE LOWER BEED SCREW AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES
MOST LIKIELY IT WILL GRAVITY BLEED EASILY THE ONCE IT DRIPS FOR A WHILE PUT HOSE ON IT SO ITS HIGHER THEN PUMP A FEW TIMES INTAO A BOTTLE AND YOUR DONE
WORKS EVERY TIME PEDAL WILL STILL GO TO FLOOR
AND THE SPRING STAYS IN PLACE
I JUST PULL THE PEDAL BACK SET IT IN THE GROOVE AND ALL DONE
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Bleed with the slave off then bolt it on.
What Steve said -- I tried several techniques with the slave installed and couldn't get it right. I ended up unbolting it and snaking it up through the engine compartment so I could get it above the master while bleeding.
stphers
Well-Known Member
Oh you guys, you all make sound so hard to do, this and bleeding brakes. Been doing this all by myself for years and rarely ever having an issue. Simply get a clear small pop bottle poke 2 holes in the cap that will allow some clear plastic hose thru. I think that it is 1/4 od hose. Put some wire around one end of the hose under the cap making sure that the hose opening is right at the bottom of the bottle, this acts as a stop so the hose can't be pulled out, the other hole is for the other end of the hose to be put away when not is use and as a vent when bleeding. Put some brake fluid in the bottle about a 1/3 full. I put some wire around the outside of the neck and make a little hanger for the bottle, if you double the wire and twist it up, it usually stays that way so you can hang the bottle near the bleeder. Stick the open end of the hose over the bleeder, open the bleeder a lot and make sure the reservoir is full, pump the pedal a good 4 or 5 times with a slow but steady stroke right to the bottom of the floor. If you get someone else to pump, you can watch all the bubbles come through and really see when there is just new clear fluid coming through. Double check the reservoir level ( don't let it go dry ) Close off the bleeder and pump up the pedal a few more times and put a stick on the pedal against the seat and crack the bleeder, you might have to do either a couple of times but I have always been able to bleed off anything this way in a pretty short time and with minimal mess.. The secret trick here is making sure that the res level does not go dry and as long as that hose end in the bottle remains in fluid, air cannot get back into the system. When the bottle starts to get full, easy to pour some out BUT always keep enough in the bottle so that hose opening stays in fluid. Try it and be amazed. It does work well
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
Lots of good ideas, everyone. Basically, bleeding the clutch system is not the same as the brakes (duh.) After you do the "open bleeder, depress pedal, close bleeder, release pedal" routine 5-6 times (faithful assistant's patience wearing out by now) you have to remove the slave, open the bleeder, push the rod all the way in, tighten the bleeder, and re-install the slave (I think this is what HB Chris meant; if so, thank you HB Chris.) This method finally worked for me. So does having a beer....
stphers
Well-Known Member
Nope, never took the slave off to do this. Just did 4 5 speed swaps on 2002's in the last 8 months and did each one this way, Had it all bled in about 10 min.