clutch problems

bmw art car

bmw art car

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eversince i got the car i could not shift into gear while the car runs
i have replaced the master clutch slave and
the brake master...
i bleed the clutch and it worked yesterday with the engine running
this morning i replaces the hose from the brake fluid reservoir and after that
it didn't work again
i bleed the system but nada

could it be the slave?
is there are kit out ? i found a bag with 3 parts in it. a gasket a clip and a boot
part # is 21 52 103 191
and how far is the clutch lever supposed to move?
 
Last edited:
If you bled the system and then it worked. Then it sat and now won't, it needs to be bled again, and probably again.
The fluid doesn't compress as easily as air in the line. The air will migrate to a cylinder and easily compress lessening the travel of your clutch t/o bearing and plate.
If it is easy to push down the clutch pedal that is a dead give away. As air is removed it will become harder to press the pedal to the floor.
To bleed by yourself. Get a flexible hose, 24+", that fits over the bleed nipple, tightly, and top off the brake fluid container. Put about 2 inches of water in a beer bottle, this keeps the action from drawing in air.
Open the nipple and push down the pedal and you will see bubbles in the water.
It will have to be repeated several times until no bubbles appear.
Continue to top off the fluid reservoir so as not to induce more air into the system.
Close the nipple and compress many times and repeat the bleed until it works.
There is obviously more air in the system.
This happens when replacing many parts in the system and takes time to remove.
Take it for a drive and do again as necessary.
HTH
reno
 
steve in reno said:
If you bled the system and then it worked. Then it sat and now won't, it needs to be bled again, and probably again.
The fluid doesn't compress as easily as air in the line. The air will migrate to a cylinder and easily compress lessening the travel of your clutch t/o bearing and plate.
If it is easy to push down the clutch pedal that is a dead give away. As air is removed it will become harder to press the pedal to the floor.
To bleed by yourself. Get a flexible hose, 24+", that fits over the bleed nipple, tightly, and top off the brake fluid container. Put about 2 inches of water in a beer bottle, this keeps the action from drawing in air.
Open the nipple and push down the pedal and you will see bubbles in the water.
It will have to be repeated several times until no bubbles appear.
Continue to top off the fluid reservoir so as not to induce more air into the system.
Close the nipple and compress many times and repeat the bleed until it works.
There is obviously more air in the system.
This happens when replacing many parts in the system and takes time to remove.
Take it for a drive and do again as necessary.
HTH
reno
Click to expand...

thank you reno
it feels pretty firm. i'll ty some more with a bit of teflon tape on the nipple to make sure she doesn't suck air through there.
i use the little bottle of the mighty vac, so there shouldn't be any air getting sucked back in...
you gave me new hope, so i'll do some more bleeding
 
dang said:
Bleeding master cylinders can be difficult. Don't give up yet! :-D
Click to expand...

so i didn't give up and kept bleeding to all my hearts content.
while i was doing it i got a bit of a suspicious feeling...
see...the clutch pedal is rather firm. and i can see the arm
underneath move. and when my lovely assistant manipulated the
clutch while i checked the motion underneath i could not move the
arm any further than it already did... so i think it moved through its
range of motion...
making this long post a tad bit longer...
i raised one rear wheel. put the car in gear with clutch pedal pressed.
and tried to spin the wheel... nada... doesn't budge much.
in neutral it does... so i get the feeling the clutch might be stuck to the flywheel...
what's your prognosis?
 
Art car
I responded to the other post before I saw this one.
New info.

You will not be able to move the clutch arm with human strength anywhere in it's range of motion under the car, that is why it is hydraulic.
How far did the clutch arm move to the rear when pedal depressed. Important distance!!!
Trying to spin the tire with just the clutch pushed in would be very difficult at best. Your trying to overcome to many gears and normal clutch friction, and possibly the other rear tire.

I am not saying the clutch isn't frozen. Just not as likely as other cheaper problems/solutions.
You stated that you had never been able to shift. How long/miles have you owned/driven this car?

reno
 
well... call me superman, then :D
when i turned the rear wheel with the other tire on the ground i turned over the engine... :mrgreen::mrgreen: i could see that from back there into the open hood...

and i have good news too
i gave up on bleeding the brakes (of course it should be bleeding the clutch... did a typo there) and instead i sat in the car and pressed the clutch,put in the reverse and turned the ignition key. that gave the car a little jolt i imediatley let go of the key... did that twice and with the third time the clut got free...
then i put in the first and this time it went in while the car was running without a problem... had to be a stuck clutch...
then i slowly went a put forward letting the clutch drag a little... sounded like sand paper in there...
but the clutch doesn't slip...grips nicely

i think in the other post i mentioned that i believed to be able to shift at some point with the car running... but came to think of it that was when both rear wheels were off the ground...
steve in reno said:
Art car
I responded to the other post before I saw this one.
New info.

You will not be able to move the clutch arm with human strength anywhere in it's range of motion under the car, that is why it is hydraulic.
How far did the clutch arm move to the rear when pedal depressed. Important distance!!!
Trying to spin the tire with just the clutch pushed in would be very difficult at best. Your trying to overcome to many gears and normal clutch friction, and possibly the other rear tire.

I am not saying the clutch isn't frozen. Just not as likely as other cheaper problems/solutions.
You stated that you had never been able to shift. How long/miles have you owned/driven this car?

reno
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
steve in reno said:
Art car
...

You will not be able to move the clutch arm with human strength anywhere in it's range of motion under the car, that is why it is hydraulic.
How far did the clutch arm move to the rear when pedal depressed. Important distance!!!
you stated that you had never been able to shift. How long/miles have you owned/driven this car?

reno
Click to expand...

hey reno
uhm the car was stored for 10+ years and i never drove her ,actually.
i replaced the mastercylinder with a new one...
as well as the clutch master (was leaking on the inside)
i didn't meassure the distance but from the look of it it went as far forward as it may go... but i can do some measuring
 
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