Clutch slave cylinder removal/rebuild

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Laldog

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For the 3rd winter in a row, the clutch slave cylinder evacuated the contents of the hydraulic system all over my driveway. Time for replacement.

Easy removal of the cylinder itself has proven impossible. A 3 day soak of BP Blaster had zero effect, solid blows to the midsection with a "drilling hammer" proved fruitless, as did twisting, pulling and cursing with the biggest set of vise-grips in my arsenal.

2 questions:

How risky heat is using a little heat to loosen things up a bit?

Where is the seal that needs to be replaced (front or back) and can it (realistically) be replaced without removal?

Of course, any tips, suggestions and warnings would be extremely welcome.

Thanks
 
I had a one year old clutch slave fail and then the master failed shortly afterwards on the 2800. I think it is because these parts might have sat on a shelf for ten years.
 
I used heat to remove mine, try to heat the belhousing area not the slave. If no success thn heat the slave too. I've had better luck with Liquid Wrench. Once out rebuild is easy provided the inside isnt rust pitted, clean with brake fluid and a 2500 grit 3M sponge, not sure can be done in situ.
 
Which version slave do you have? I think from doing work here over winter there are two types fitted to E9s. Mine fits through a hole in the bell housing and has circlips holding it in place.

Bit of a struggle to get the circlips, I needed to buy better circlip pliers. But it rotated and freed off easy enough

I would replace with new, unless the interior looks clearly very smooth and unfitted. W&N sold me a new master.
 
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