Again, thanks much for all your help. Bringing MY BABY in next week, with the list below. I forgot to answer about the fan noise. I tried turning the AC to off, but the noise still persists, but it is intermittent now. The big red fan does not flow freely as it is tight, but when running I don't see it hitting anything so it must be from the other fan in front of the radiator, which I can't see. It occurred to me that several months ago, I had the same issue where it made a HORRIBLE noise, much worse than now but similar but went way. I honestly thought the entire car was falling apart it was so bad.
Lastly, the information I got about the alternator and jumper was from the guy on eBay that I bought the refurbished alternator from, who seemed to know what he was talking about. The red light goes off within 5 minutes of driving. Is this a big deal, or can I ignore?
Hopefully, with the clear list below from you guys, these issues will be resolved. Thanks so very much. I can't tell you how much I truly appreciate this forum.
o Passenger Windows and sunroof switches not operational
Switches can be taken apart and cleaned and you can use an emory board to clean the contacts. These switches are SUPER easy to take apart and there is nothing inside them that is complex. It's harder to take them out of the console than to open them up.
Sunroof switch.....there are 3 wires and 4 spades so it is not hard to get these screwed up. Hook it up wrong and it does not work, another way and the roof closes when the switch is pushed back, another way and it closes when the switch is pushed forward.
On a 74 there are no spades where wires can get mixed up, the wires are in a bakelite plug, just snap them in by unzipping shift boot and pushing plugs up into the switches. Make sure they are plugged in, if a rear one is unplugged front switch won’t work either.
As to the window switches, the problem probably arose from whoever last worked on them. Given that you just had someone messing around with something you call a "console adjustment", it is likely that they disconnected the switches and improperly reconnected them. You can evaluate this yourself. The four connections on the switches are numbered, and the wiring diagram in your owners manual shows the wiring to each terminal on each switch. This is tedious, but not complicated.
o Fan in engine making noises. Needs adjustment
fan noise: I’ll bet your fan bearings are shot due to lack of use.
There are two fans in the engine bay. Given this problem arose after you replaced fuses, it would seem that your issue is associated with the auxiliary fan in front of the radiator which is initiated electrically by the A/C temperature switch. Try turning this switch all the way counterclockwise (thereby turning off your air conditioning), start the car and let us know if you still hear the noise.
Your cooling fan is hitting something, look down there, are there marks on the fan, it should spin freely when cool, and motor is off. Check fuses again for radio and sunroof, turn them, move them about to be sure there is a clean contact.
o E Brake needs attention - does not work --need cables
As to the ebrake, several obvious possibilities come to mind. First, the parking brake is not adjusted correctly. Secondly, the parking brake cable may be strecthed to the point where it no longer exerts enough pressure on the brake shoes. This is actually a subset of the first issue as it should become apparent when adjusting the parking brake. The other obvious possibility is that the shoes within the brake itself may be worn out and in need of replacement. That can happen if you drive with the parking brake on. All that said, the most likely culprit is an incorrect adjustment.
As to the ebrake, several obvious possibilities come to mind. First, the parking brake is not adjusted correctly. Secondly, the parking brake cable may be stretched to the point where it no longer exerts enough pressure on the brake shoes. This is actually a subset of the first issue as it should become apparent when adjusting the parking brake. The other obvious possibility is that the shoes within the brake itself may be worn out and in need of replacement. That can happen if you drive with the parking brake on. All that said, the most likely culprit is an incorrect adjustment.
o Becker radio so lights go on? Just power, not needing to work
o Alternator - Test to see if putting off the right power: the best test is to run a long jumper wire from the battery to the alternator to check if the voltage increases. The junction box loses power. Check your voltage regulator to make sure it is keeping the alternator charging the battery. Should be 14.4 volts when the car is running.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bmwe9/permalink/2732887543523100/
Yes, that is an issue. The red light indicates the car is drawing more juice from the battery than from the alternator. This should not happen while the engine is running. One simple thing to check is whether the belt is tight. Within a certain range, the alternator will work, but be less efficient. The second thing, assuming the belt is tight, would be to replace the voltage regulator. These are inexpensive and simple to replace.
At to the alternator, without regard to the facebook jibberish, our cars are wired with huge red wire going from the alternator to the battery (this is how the alternator charges the battery), so I don't know what a "jumper" will tell you, and if you are looking to facebook on how to do this I strongly suggest you don't attempt to do whatever it is they are suggesting. Please describe what problems you are having and detail how you tested the alternator voltage. We'll go from there.
