control arms

30csl

30csl

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I plan to change the control arms this week - I have new ones with the bush installed. How long should this take considering I shouldnt come acoss too many tough nuts/bolts etc.
 
change control arms

I have done this on one side only, perhaps two years ago. How long it takes depends a little on your mechanical aptitude and dexterity.

The general procedure is to jack up the front, block it, remove wheels (makes is easier to see things down there but not required) then unbolt the sway bar both sides, unbolt inner end of each control arm, unbolt outer ends, bang away at it with the BFH until the tapered bolt at the outer end disengages, then install new arms.

The most difficult part will be to hammer out the tapered ball joint. If yours it real tight, it takes longer. IIRC, I used a pickle fork and it came out after three to five whacks with the 2.5 pound hammer. YMMV, I can't say how tight yours will be.

It is suggested to have the toe-in checked after control arm replacement.
 
Thanks for that - hoping the arm wont be a real bastard.

Malc, the control arms at the front - I think mine are well overdue replacement!
 
Don't know, do street E9s have safety wire for the three bolts holding the strut to the control arm? If so be sure to re-safety wire 'em (you don't want to know how I know). If you can't safety wire them Loctite would not be a bad idea.
 
Hey Phil,

Yeah they have lock wire - I have some stainless aircraft stuff to go back on there. The nuts came out with the studs however as they were a bit rusty.

The arm is pretty shot so Im hoping this cures my wobble at 55-60mph which happens with 16" alpinas but not the 14" ones.

I am changing the springs too to the Carl Nelson ones I ordered back in 2001 - they are suspension techniques and are 3 cm longer than the ones currently on the car and I guess a lot softer as the ride height should end up the same from what Im hearing from others with those springs.
 
Anyone know the part number for the studs that go into the bottom of the strut leg and hold the metal piece that the control arm is bolted into? The studs came out with the nuts when i removed them? I can't identify them on real oem either?

Also - would it be ok to use stainless bolts to mount the calipers or are they not up to the job?

Thanks in advance
 
I wouldn't use stainless unless you know exactly what the material is. A 17-4 ph or an A286 would be ok but most of the stainless bolts you buy at the hardware store are a 300 series stainless and have a very low yield strength 40 ksi. The stock bolts probably have a yield strength of 150-180 ksi.

Scott
 
Hi Scott - thanks for that - was thinking the same thing - where do you get the stronger yielding bolts?
 
McMaster-Carr has a good selection of different bolts. You might have a hard time trying to find a 17-4 or A286 in a metric size. A grade 8 bolt should be strong enough.

Scott
 
2x on the regular grade 8 bolt

2x on the regular grade 8 bolt

stainless wouldn't be necessary for this application. How many times have you had to take off these particular control arms, anyway?
 
The studs are one-piece, i.e. the "nut" you're thinking is stuck on there is actually a shoulder on the stud, with flats on it to function like a nut. That way you can torque to spec before safety-wiring.



Hope this helps
 
Philip Slate said:
I think this is the part #... my HTK is a bit hard to figure out sometimes...32-21-1-113-179. Simply called 'HEX BOLT'
Click to expand...

I didn't look but I "do" know there are two different sizes, lil smaller for earlier, 1-2mm larger for later.

f.w.i.w.
 
Right you are, dp. Completely forgot about the two sizes thing. Went back to the EKT and looked for another part # to no avail as there was no part # listed for that bolt for early cars. Mobile Traditions apparantly just assumed that all the early cars have rusted away to dust by now.
 
Philip Slate said:
Right you are, dp. Completely forgot about the two sizes thing. Went back to the EKT and looked for another part # to no avail as there was no part # listed for that bolt for early cars. Mobile Traditions apparantly just assumed that all the early cars have rusted away to dust by now.
Click to expand...
Maybe a 2800/3.0 thing that corresponds to a "change" in strut towers? I dunno I honestly don't recall if the strut towers are different for the 2500/2800 sedans and coupes -vs- 3.0, apart from the tres damn bolts sizes!
 
Hi Guys,

You guys are spot on - they are indeed bolts which when very rusty looked like nuts and studs. I cleaned them up and reused as I couldn't wait for new ones.

I'm delighted with the new control arms and front springs - much better ride - tempted to do the manual steering conversion now though!

Regards,

Rohan
 
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