Coolant drain pit**** with nipple.

84E24

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I drained the coolant from my radiator and block, what a mess !!!

I have been told that there is a pit**** with a nipple that replaces the plugs in the block and radiator. A drain hose can be attached making the job alot easier.

Does anyone know of such a thing and where they can be had ?


Thanks, Steve
 
I tried on realoem to find the block drain - I couldn't. I wanted to see if the metric size of the plug was listed, from which one could source the appropriately threaded ..p..e..t..c..o..c..k.. Mmmm, seems a filter edits certain things, perhaps my inferior attempt will get by.

I have removed the plug (though not lately) and yes, you do get a face full of coolant (hot!) sometimes. Other times, if there's enough sludge in there, nothing comes out until you poke a coathanger in and then - splash - you're all wet.

Given how infrequently this needs doing, I wonder whether it's really useful to put something there that could somehow fail. I like the simplicity of a bolt stuck in there to stay.

Now if this was to be installed on/as an oil drain, maybe I'd be onboard.
 
The coolant drain (block drain) is on the right side of the engine block, several inches below the exhaust port of #5 cylinder. It is a 19 mm (17mm?) hex head that is screwed in close to the block. The "bolt" is only about an inch long overall. It's in there fairly snugly but not in my experience really tight.

You'll have to jack up and support the car. I suggest using a box wrench to open it, being sure the wrench is well seated on the hex head. Be aware of where your hand will go if the wrench slips off. Best to loosen the drain bolt slightly, then unscrew with your fingertips, keeping the rest of yourself as far away as possible to avoid the gusher that will come when it unscrews. Obviously, you don't want to do this when the engine is hot.

NOW THEN... sometimes nothing comes out after you unscrew the drain bolt, because there is sludge built up behind the drain. You then get a bit of coat hanger wire and stick it in (initiating the gusher) to dislodge the sludge. Worm the wire around as much as possible while running some water into the coolant overflow tank to flush the crud. Consider looking up how much oxalic acid you need to create a solution that over some miles, will dissolve crud and allow it to be flushed next time you drain the system. There are commercial cooling system flushes you can use, sold by the pint can at your friendly local corner auto parts store. I doubt they are much different between them, and all will likely do "some" good.
 
Coolant drain

This is what I was looking for. A stainless steel ball valve in a solid brass housing. These can be used for oil or coolant. Just bought 1 each for the block drain & radiator ( M14 x 1.5 ) and oil pan (M12 x 1.5).

http://www.qwikvalve.com/home.php


Steve
 
Sorry, but does our radiators have a drain plug (aka petc*ck)? I can't seem to find it. Or does one just disconnect the lower rad hose to drain the rad?
 
The coolant drain (block drain) is on the right side of the engine block, several inches below the exhaust port of #5 cylinder. It is a 19 mm (17mm?) hex head that is screwed in close to the block. The "bolt" is only about an inch long overall. It's in there fairly snugly but not in my experience really tight.

You'll have to jack up and support the car. I suggest using a box wrench to open it, being sure the wrench is well seated on the hex head. Be aware of where your hand will go if the wrench slips off. Best to loosen the drain bolt slightly, then unscrew with your fingertips, keeping the rest of yourself as far away as possible to avoid the gusher that will come when it unscrews. Obviously, you don't want to do this when the engine is hot.

NOW THEN... sometimes nothing comes out after you unscrew the drain bolt, because there is sludge built up behind the drain. You then get a bit of coat hanger wire and stick it in (initiating the gusher) to dislodge the sludge. Worm the wire around as much as possible while running some water into the coolant overflow tank to flush the crud. Consider looking up how much oxalic acid you need to create a solution that over some miles, will dissolve crud and allow it to be flushed next time you drain the system. There are commercial cooling system flushes you can use, sold by the pint can at your friendly local corner auto parts store. I doubt they are much different between them, and all will likely do "some" good.

done this recently,

it is very surprising that some mechanics do now know this and subsequently only part of the old coolant is removed,
my experience is that only half of the coolant comes out if you remove only the radiator plug
the rest is still pending to remove the block plug
so this is crucial
i remove coolant every two years so now is an easy thing, the forst time the block hole was clogged with debris, yes
i recall this was one of my first threads,...

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/refrigeration-system-renewal-and-repair.6020/

in fact it was the second one
 
Where was this thread 3 years ago when I did this on my e24.................one can see why some unknowing animal would drink this stuff since I got a great taste of it doing the job.

What do people do with the old coolant? My local Autozone etc does not accept it.
 
Adding to the above great advice.

1- I liked using a 19mm deep socket for the engine block. It's pretty tight space when you have the car on jacks.
2. When you remove the radiator plug the coolant comes out like a fire hose. I had a funnel with a long tube, picture attached, that I put in front of the geyser to direct it to my collection bucket
3- I drove my front end up onto two bricks (0ne each wheel), I use to chock the wheels, to lift front end to help with the bleed
 

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