I have been having spurtic fluxuation with my coolant temperature. Someone suggested that it possibly was bad thermostat and that I should remove it an see what happens. With it removed my temperature stayed below 3 oclock mostly steady at 4 or slightly lower. I ran around for over an hour and there it stood. Does this really mean my TStat is bad? Any suggestions or comments greatly appreciated.
Cooling
- Thread starter kys911t
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x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
That would suggest the rest of your system is sound, but what was the original behavior? Depending on the symptoms, you may have fixed it by bleeding the system.
Don't forget the radiator cap?
Frequently the caps won't hold the correct pressure and the temp will rise because the system is not pressurized.
Just replaced one on my Ford F-150 truck and new one on my 88M5 last fall.
Frequently the caps won't hold the correct pressure and the temp will rise because the system is not pressurized.
Just replaced one on my Ford F-150 truck and new one on my 88M5 last fall.
Under normal driving my temperature would be right around 3 oclock. However at a stand still it would slowly creep up to just below the red. If started moving again it would move back down to 3 oclock. In addition if I was standing still and it creeped up if I rev'd it up it would also come down.
execmalibu
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Kys911T that is caused by a bad fan clutch...
Kys911T that is caused by a bad fan clutch...
Open the hood and rev the engine and watch the fan... If it not moving at idle then the clutch is bad...
Kys911T that is caused by a bad fan clutch...
Open the hood and rev the engine and watch the fan... If it not moving at idle then the clutch is bad...
If the fan is moving turn off the engine when it's warm and see what the tension of the fan is-should not be easy to turn, if it is slipping it wont be pulling air to spec
pamp
Well-Known Member
This stuff will not break the bank. Spec. to the sfdon recipe. For some reason some think a three core 'rad is an upgrade. I disagree. Two core is best. Spend a few dollars and over haul your system....painless and piece of mind.
The "test" is easy but what it means can be tough.
Hood up and engine warmed up.
Stare at the fan and turn off the engine.
if the fan keeps spinning- the fan clutch is not engaging.
Sadly that doesn't mean the clutch is bad.
You need to check that air is flowing through the center of the radiator and the water is
flowing through the center too.
airbubbles, dirty outer radiator fins and clogged inner radiator and broken t-stats can all be the root problem to the fan not engaging.
Hood up and engine warmed up.
Stare at the fan and turn off the engine.
if the fan keeps spinning- the fan clutch is not engaging.
Sadly that doesn't mean the clutch is bad.
You need to check that air is flowing through the center of the radiator and the water is
flowing through the center too.
airbubbles, dirty outer radiator fins and clogged inner radiator and broken t-stats can all be the root problem to the fan not engaging.
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
Yep, sounds like a bad fan clutch.
That said, you will see some gauge movement (2-5 "o'clock" as you put it) during normal driving depending on engine load and ambient temperature. The temperature gauge is an actual gauge, and is not nearly as damped as on more modern cars.
With my coupe, I switched to a thicker Bav+AC radiator and have not had any issues in Atlanta traffic in August.
I think 3:00 to 4:00 is more normal for the temp gauge. Mine stays at 4:00 unless very hot out and it might get to 3:00.
Mine hangs around 4 o'clock nearly all the time, barely out of the blue on cool days. Wondering if I need a new thermo? Bav Auto has one rated 71 degrees C. Is this correct? My Saab uses 89 C....