Crank pulley bolt stuck
- Thread starter sprintevo
- Start date
Rattle gun it if you have one, if the nut is stuffed, you may just have to find the next smallest socket and tap it on so you get something that works, you may need to sacrifice nut/bolt and get another when you put it back together, it is a bit rough but sometimes it's just what you've got to do
350 lbs of torque for that nut... Use the big ass gun and then remove the dampner with the pulley and flange as one unit.
lefty lucy is correct.
lefty lucy is correct.
sorted
the pulley bolts were rounded, well all bar 2 of them, so hammered a 11mm hex socket on and they all came off which revealed the main nut. I was hanging off a large piece of scaffold about 5 ft ong on the end of a heavy duty socket and the block was on a engine stand with the flywheel end locked and had another full 3.5l engine on the legs of the stand as a counter weight and it did not move at all, propane heat, air gun nothing nada. ended up dremeling a groove in the nut as far across it as possible without reaching the threads of the crank and using a cold chisel and lots of force to provide a couple of thou stretch on the nut which them gave up its grip on the thread and came off as thought there was no problem at all. Now I can strip this beat of and engine and work out what to do with it
Next questions is can I go with a later larger valve head and skim the head to lower the compression and bring it back up to the M90 comp ratio, or do I need to get some gas flowing and bigger valves in the M90 head. What is the best approach for this?
the pulley bolts were rounded, well all bar 2 of them, so hammered a 11mm hex socket on and they all came off which revealed the main nut. I was hanging off a large piece of scaffold about 5 ft ong on the end of a heavy duty socket and the block was on a engine stand with the flywheel end locked and had another full 3.5l engine on the legs of the stand as a counter weight and it did not move at all, propane heat, air gun nothing nada. ended up dremeling a groove in the nut as far across it as possible without reaching the threads of the crank and using a cold chisel and lots of force to provide a couple of thou stretch on the nut which them gave up its grip on the thread and came off as thought there was no problem at all. Now I can strip this beat of and engine and work out what to do with it
Next questions is can I go with a later larger valve head and skim the head to lower the compression and bring it back up to the M90 comp ratio, or do I need to get some gas flowing and bigger valves in the M90 head. What is the best approach for this?