CSI fuel pump death throes

Jasper

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Is this the sound of imminent fuel pump death?

With ignition on it hums until pressure reaches 30psi. Then it start making noise. Flow is 1,2 litres/min. When engine is on pressure oscillates between 25 and 30 psi. No air bubbles in fuel. System pressure drops to 27 psi when off and takes half a day to reach zero.
Car is practically undriveable, stumbling above 2000 rpm.

I ask because the pump has had about three operating hours since 2017 and the previous pump (that leaked) made the same noise.

Pump is new type Bosch. I have no original, unfortunately.

Whiny pump. <———-link
 
Well, now that you mention it, it is on the unrestricted side. I'll remove pump and pickup om monday.
 
Unfortunately with new E05 or E10 gasoline it is probably clogged or rusted assuming your fuel tank is clean with no rust.

Modern fuel are aggressive for the system including fuel regulator diaphragms, pumps etc as they are soaking humidity causing rust and they are reactive due to ethanol to rubber and metals.

I would not be surprised it is to be scrapped but I'm far from wising you that.

Keeping for You!
 
So, apart from an unobtainable original pump, what’s the “pompe du jour” on the European scene? :)

/Jasper
 
Possible solutions if you are using newer E28 style fuel pump. That Audio-Video clip the pump lost its prime coming from the tank, it may still be OK when it's not starving of fuel. E28 fuel pumps have the same flow rate as the originals except the orientation 180° opposite & will require 20mm more or less wiring harness from the original plug to the newer pump. Follow my advice below before replacing the pump you have.

Original rubber fuel hose with dissolve & clog the pump, filter(s) & injectors. Replace old fuel rubber with new fuel safe rubber.

Rust will clog the fine mesh screen on the bottom of the Level Sender/Pick-up. If no one remembers replacing it, now's the time to replace the screen, rubber flange seal, all in-line fuel filters & clean the bottom of the tank.

I used a 5 gallon bucket & a fine mesh "gold" coffee filter, flashlight/headlight, a clear tube & syphoned all the rusty chunks from my fuel tank the syphon is a liquid vacuum. Works great, then re-used the filtered fuel. Depending how full your tank is, may need multiple buckets.
 
I’m believe I have a few rebuilt pumps on the shelf still in the box.
Heading to shop in an hour.
 
1723909724575.jpeg
 
I’m believe I have a few rebuilt pumps on the shelf still in the box.
Heading to shop in an hour.
Well, I’m a stickler for originality (even if the car’s a CS with a CSI engine). How much will one of those set me back?
 
I’ll check when I get to shop today.
Did you weld the bracket to your Cs?
 
Some shops may be able to repair/restore your pump, so keep it as they are becoming less and less available. Might be worth to pay for resurrecting it.

It would be good not to keep it dry but fill in with some non-aggressive, low viscosity oil

Sometimes flushing the pump (operating with closed loop fuel line with the fuel/cleaner bottle) with some cleaning agent might help but it is not a rule. Of course beware of the flammability of the fuel during any of cleaning or repairs!
 
Always depends on voltage to pump- with alternator operating (car running)
you expect to see more flow.
I am curious to know what the correct pressure and flow rate should be for the original fuel pump? Are new ones still available, even at silly prices?

Thanks Adrian.
For the m30b35 the pump needs to keep fuel rail pressure at 48psi and 1 gallon per minute is a good flow rate.
 
Well. I fell into the “trust previous owners work” hole. (Again).
Filter in pickup (CS sender) looked like crap. And there were fairly large bits of masking tape floating around in the tank all centred around the pickup.

IMG_6170.jpeg


IMG_6168.jpeg


Tank looked fine, so I fished out the tape, changed the filter and voila. It’s drivable again.

@Don. The money man has an original pump on his nice to have list. But thank you for the offer.
 
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