Daicos35 - Brake Booster delete

decoupe

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Daicos35,

"brake boosters removed, 20mm master cylinder installed.......re the brake with no boosters ,and smaller diameter master... have had a brake test completed on the car by an engineer in order to have it registered,, while the pedal is claerlay firm, it does have good travel, and is street leagl in terms of effort required to porduce .8 g of braking force,,, I actually really like it........"

If you don't mind sharing some details and maybe some photos could describe the setup you have installed?

Thanks,

Doug
 
hey guys, was looking at the spelling of my original post, horrible!!

so mine is a RHD car, and had twin remote brake boosters, so the brake master is its own stand alone unit, as opposed to your left hookers, that have an intergrated brake booster on the master.

so for me, v easy, i purchased a smaller diameter RHD brake master, and plumbed the brake lines direct to the calipers etc (my mechanic did it etc etc).

question for you is, can you buy a smaller diameter lhd master, and run it without the intergrated booster?

if not, i cannot see why a rhd master would not work, you may need to put some u - turns in the plumbing of the brake lines etc etc..

so i did it to save weight, get rid of the boosters that kept failing, and because i wanted to make the car as simple as possible, and not run vacuum to anything (including the distributor)..

i also switched to ferodo performance brake pads in the front, with standard in the rear,, these front pads are a mild performance upgrade...

braking pressure and travel is great, and Australian street legal (as certified by local auto engineer for registration purposes here in aus)...

I oculd post the brake test results, they look at how much pedal froce is required to creat a certain amount of G's of braking power, from a certain starting speed, then they repeat the test 15 times, to check for fade...

either way, i would advise speaking to a local auto engineer / certifier , for local registration purposes first, work out how the test works over there, then i can give you my data, if it looks ok to your local guys, then it is worth considering.......
 
Thanks for the info - I'm sure there will be other questions and others interested. I went from a stock CS booster to a Tii when I put in a b35 intake manifold for clearance reasons - works fine. The idea of less stuff to work around in the engine bay does have some appeal though.

My daughter spent most (if not all) wondering around Oz up the east coast from Brisbane. If you ran into a Canadian girl with a dually passport Kiwi/Ausie on crutches - that would be her. Now in NZ until the New Year.

Doug
 
Doug - when you went to the tii booster, did you bend your existing brake lines or install new ones?

Any tricks or traps you could pass along. This is on my list (I have the booster and pedals already).



Thanks for the info - I'm sure there will be other questions and others interested. I went from a stock CS booster to a Tii when I put in a b35 intake manifold for clearance reasons - works fine. The idea of less stuff to work around in the engine bay does have some appeal though.

My daughter spent most (if not all) wondering around Oz up the east coast from Brisbane. If you ran into a Canadian girl with a dually passport Kiwi/Ausie on crutches - that would be her. Now in NZ until the New Year.

Doug
 
Ohmess - I did have to bend the brake lines to accommodate the shorter booster and mount - this was easily done by hand and possibly used a piece of 1" or larger wooden dowel to avoid any kinks. Work from back to front - bottom to top. Need any pics let me know.

Doug
 
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