Differential re-seal - should I do the bearings also?

Stevehose

Stevehose

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I am going to put the original 3.64 back into my car, I like the 3.45 but it’s just too long for my city driving, plus I have 5th gear for the rare highway drive which I have yet to get to from 4th in 1000 miles.

It has 95k miles on it. I am going to do the seals and ginormous o-ring, should I go ahead and do the input and half shaft bearings? Or just the input if it takes most of the abuse? I have the wizardry of @jjs2800cs to help with the crush seal tension if necessary.

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Well, just my opinion, but my observation of your Coupe projects usually shows an all-in, let's-get-it all-done-while-I-am-in -there, approach. What we may be witnessing here is a "maturity" level in the area of ...well, is the hypothetical, incremental, perhaps-I-never-get-to-see-the-difference, type of analysis, has started to rear its head? Whatever you choose, Steve, we always benefit from your chronicling of the service with photos and pitfalls and a guide for the rest of us to follow. Good luck which ever way this goes! ;)
 
One side bearing had a bit of a hesitation when turning by hand, something little, it just did not feel consistant while turning.
Turned out the cage holding the ball in equidistant spacing had seperated; there are 2 halves that are (supposed) to be spotwelded together. these spotwelds failed. thus the 2 rings simply were 'floating' around the balls. Notice also the 2 metal flakes just left of the removed cage, probably they were part of the cage before it disintegrated.
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The ball bearing left and right are easy to replace. There are very small!
I would replace those two.

The bearing on the front is more critical due to the tension that must be applied. Leave that one if it is good (no noise)
 
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