Differential re-seal

billpatterson

billpatterson

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
532
Reaction score
263
Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
HI
I am reposting this from the E3 Forum. Its crickets over there (no offense E3rs ;) ). I often dig into the E9 Forum for perspective and nuggets.

-------------

Hi
I am working on refurbishing the rear subframe, suspension and drive parts. The differential has no apparent leaks however the interior of each drive axle flange and the mating faces of the CV joints were a bit 'oily'. The oil had that acrid gear oil smell.

Is this common?

Is it common to use thread sealant on the drive flange retaining bolts?

THX

Bill


+RD%%pclQuKU5gUpEM1R1Q.jpg


GQfdza6bT9WooDQr3teqWA.jpg


IMG_2269.JPG


IMG_2270.JPG
 
I'm no expert but I think the grease used in the CV joint separates causing oil to seap out of everywhere. And of course they spin too, flinging things about.
 
Looks too thin to be from the CV boot. It is not a big deal to replace all you diff seals, it's out, it's cheap. I would also rebuild each axle,just because they look original.
 
I would replace the seals on the half shafts since you have it apart. There is also a skinny rubber seal for the side loader side as well. And use Loctite.
 
bavbob said:
Looks too thin to be from the CV boot. It is not a big deal to replace all you diff seals, it's out, it's cheap. I would also rebuild each axle,just because they look original.
Click to expand...

Hi
I have boot kits coming. The boots are intact and the CV joints are smooth with no slop. However, while its out and apart, though a messing job, it is worthwhile doing in the long run.

Cheers
Bill
 
billpatterson said:
Hi Chris,
I have a seal kit coming...I will replace input, outputs, and the o ring seal.

THX
Bill
Click to expand...
Hi Bill, what was your source for the seal kit? Your differential makes mine look fresh, so I am planning on seals and refreshing the half-shafts at the same time.

Lance
 
Boonies said:
Hi Bill, what was your source for the seal kit? Your differential makes mine look fresh, so I am planning on seals and refreshing the half-shafts at the same time.

Lance
Click to expand...

Hi Lance
Mine after cleaning and painting looks much different than those initial pictures. Certainly wouldn't leave it in such condition :). Regarding seals, I will check my email and receipts... I only order from a few places so shouldn't be to much digging.

Cheers
Bill


mPhmFDSDQSaaMeUsfpRk5A.jpg
 
billpatterson said:
Hi Lance
Mine after cleaning and painting looks much different than those initial pictures. Certainly wouldn't leave it in such condition :). Regarding seals, I will check my email and receipts... I only order from a few places so shouldn't be to much digging.

Cheers
Bill


View attachment 135455
Click to expand...
this is how under the E9 supposed to be, it is one of a kind I think I will try to make mine look like this.
 
bavbob said:
Hopefully no cracks at the diff mount...look close while you are there.
Click to expand...
Will be no crack or rust I take care of all when I was restoring But I did not care much about under the car to be nice and clean like this one I was new and didn't know much but now I have two E9 and one E31 and lots of free time I will get dirty and redo it to see if I can make it look like this one but I will try for sure.
 
zinz said:
Always thoroughly clean the female sides of the CV joints to remove all oils/grease. Then use Loctite on the bolts. They have a nasty habit of backing out, otherwise.
Click to expand...
Hi there
I am in the process of removing my diff and will be doing a refurb with new seals etc etc.
I am just wondering which type of loctite should I use.
I think the green stuff is super hard to remove at a later stage unless you burn it off .
And the red stuff is thread sealant
Perhaps it is the blue loctite which should be used.
I know they all have specific numbers, apologies, I don’t remember them off the top of my head.

Do you recall what type of loctite should be used ?
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
First of all, if the bolt and threads are clean, then no loctite is needed; the factory just used the correct torque, and so should we.

If you do want to use loctite, try to clean the bolt and mating threads, a rag with solvent is good enough.
The loctite website will tell you what best suited for which application.

I use blue loctite for these things; it isn't massively fixed, but provides enough grip to prevent bolts releasing themselves.
You can always undo locite by baking it; blue, green and red loctite die when they are over 200 celsius or so.

Erik
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top