dismantling solutions.

Simufly

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Having spent many hours in the past drilling out and retapping seized bolts, I was struck last month by an article in the UK magazine Classic and Sportscar. In the article they wax lyrical (10 out of 10) about an American dismantling fluid. Now being a Brit, I have always thought that if Plus Gas didn' t work then nothing would. So I thought I would risk a punt on the American stuff. It duly arrived and went on the shelf. As luck would have it I am doing a brake and clutch master cylinder rebuild. Now for the uninitiated the RHD e9 is a right PITA getting access to the fixing allen bolts for both cylinders. The clutch is a right b**** particularly the lower one. It is made slightly easier by removing the heat shield from the manifold, so I applied the new fluid and waited. To my immense surprise and joy all 4 came out easily. Happy days.
I have ordered another couple of tins of the stuff. Who Know what will happen after Brexit, it might only be available on the dark web!
Anyway the stuff is Kano Aerokriol. Brilliant stuff IMO.
 
Thanks for the recommendation. Bought. Time to start prepping for engine/trans removal and disassembly!
 
Simufly
How did you buy the Kano Areokril, Amazon? I have a Jag to dismantle and trust me, the build quality of the BMW shows - steel vs chocolate nuts and bolts!

I fully agree about the clutch and brake master cylinder access. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket set to take out the hex screws that mount them. Also worth a set of brake pipe spanners to work on the pipes as they can be tricky to get off without damaging them. In the end I just changed all the pipes from the calipers back to the servos and master cylinder, inc the feed pipe from the reservoir to the master cylinders. The plan, do it once and forget about it.
Charles
 
Simufly
How did you buy the Kano Areokril, Amazon? I have a Jag to dismantle and trust me, the build quality of the BMW shows - steel vs chocolate nuts and bolts!

I fully agree about the clutch and brake master cylinder access. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket set to take out the hex screws that mount them. Also worth a set of brake pipe spanners to work on the pipes as they can be tricky to get off without damaging them. In the end I just changed all the pipes from the calipers back to the servos and master cylinder, inc the feed pipe from the reservoir to the master cylinders. The plan, do it once and forget about it.
Charles
Yes I did the brake pipes several years ago, on a E3 so virtually the same.
Ebay here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kano-Kroil-Aerokroil-16-5oz-468g-Aerosol-Penetrating-Oil-The-Oil-That-Creeps/173591568552?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
I found on the web a few years ago a trail on making your own penetrating oil, and I found a blog with a chap making his own.... using 50% ATF and 50% , I went out and got a 5l drum of Acetone and a 5 L of ATF fulid -
total cost £40.00 for 10L...- so works out nice and cheep - I only mix what I need....

My engine was sized on the CSL and I needed a load to pour down the bores and leave... it worked for me ... that's all I can say.

I have a small amount made up and I leave it in a glass jam jar , as the acetone does evaporate... but I just brush it on when I need the stuff...

As I said its fraction of the cost plus you can also use the Acetone to clean stuff with... makes your hands nice and cold!!!

see


hope it helps

Marc
 
I applied the new fluid and waited. To my immense surprise and joy all 4 came out easily. Happy days.
I have ordered another couple of tins of the stuff. Who Know what will happen after Brexit, it might only be available on the dark web!
Anyway the stuff is Kano Aerokriol. Brilliant stuff IMO.

I have tried as many commercial "dismantling fluids" as there are manufacturers making it. Results are hardly consistent considering that not all stuck fasteners are exactly alike. i.e., dissimilar metals exposed to different elements. Marine situations seem to present the worst situations, but not always. I too, have experimented with DIY variants mixing atf, kerosene, benzine and acetone. The down side of making your own in any significant quantity is storage. Commercially available aerosol versions can obviously be the most convenient.

When soaking by itself seems unproductive, I have been quick to reach for other tools of persuasion that might allow for better capillary action of the solvent/lubricant/fluid. This, of course, includes heat, from any convenient form, including oxy-acetylene, propane, electric heat gun and even the sun's rays via magnifying glass. All of these methods present a potential danger when working near flammables, so caution is strongly encouraged. Sources of extreme cold, when available seem far less effective. Another favorite is the hand impact driver and the hammer. Naturally, cleaning the threads of any fastener, lightly coating them with oil or antiseize (where appropriate) and using a torque wrench goes a long way toward preventing difficult disassembly - should there be a next time.

https://www.carcareninja.com/best-penetrating-oil-reviews/
https://www.antiseize.com/Anti-Seize-Compounds

hand-impact_s.jpg
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Aerokroil is by far the best stuff I've ever found. As the name implies, we use it on gas turbines (not ones that fly!) that have been sitting outdoors for years. Just be patient.
 
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