DIY door lock repin

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rickysbmw320i

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Is there a resource that anyone knows of that shows and describes how to change pins in the door locks to accept the original ignition key? I am specifically working on a 71 bav2800 e3 but imagine the door locks are the same on e9?

Thank you!
-Rick
 
rickysbmw320i said:
Is there a resource that anyone knows of that shows and describes how to change pins in the door locks to accept the original ignition key? I am specifically working on a 71 bav2800 e3 but imagine the door locks are the same on e9?

Thank you!
-Rick
Click to expand...
Try Searching "lock barrel", there are some posts. If you are going to change the pins, Be careful taking the barrels apart: like in an old cartoon, springs and cups come flying out and getting them back in is difficult. Took me much trial and error. I ended up using one spring/cup instead of the usual three when I changed my keys. There is also a spring/cup on the opposite side of the barrel that senses the key. This has to be included otherwise the barrel won't unlock even if all the other springs/cups are correct. Hope this helps.
 
generally you need a solid rod (same size as the inner diameter of the barrel - no significant gap) to push into the barrel as you pull the cylinder out - this keeps the springs from flying everywhere. you start by putting the key in and turning it - this brings the pins with the cylinder and leaves the 'top' pins with the springs - yes there are generally 2 sets of pins in each slot - the top pins are flat and keep the springs from getting caught in the cylinder when it rotates. in the case of master pins (sometimes used for valet keys), they are also flat pins

i have not looked at the pins for the Pebra keys and do not know their sizes compared to house lock or other car lock pins. but if you get the cylinder out, you can put a different key into the cylinder and place or rearrange the pins to fit flush with the cylinder. if they do not fit exactly (stand proud), you can file the pins down slightly ... if they don't reach the top of the cylinder, you will have a problem of the cylinder not unlocking.

when you re-insert the cylinder into the barrel, again, put it in rotated so the springs don't pop into the other slots

if you do send springs and top pins flying, using a long pair of tweezers, insert the spring into the barrel, followed by the top pin - holding it down while inserting the rod (just to cover that slot), then repeat at the next slot. you need to be careful with the pebra keys as there are pins on both sides of the key which makes things more difficult.
 
bill said:
Try Searching "lock barrel", there are some posts. If you are going to change the pins, Be careful taking the barrels apart: like in an old cartoon, springs and cups come flying out and getting them back in is difficult. Took me much trial and error. I ended up using one spring/cup instead of the usual three when I changed my keys. There is also a spring/cup on the opposite side of the barrel that senses the key. This has to be included otherwise the barrel won't unlock even if all the other springs/cups are correct. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I looked and do not see what I am looking for. I think somewhere I read that a member can repin the locks if I send them the parts and the master key. hmm.
 
rsporsche said:
generally you need a solid rod (same size as the inner diameter of the barrel - no significant gap) to push into the barrel as you pull the cylinder out - this keeps the springs from flying everywhere. you start by putting the key in and turning it - this brings the pins with the cylinder and leaves the 'top' pins with the springs - yes there are generally 2 sets of pins in each slot - the top pins are flat and keep the springs from getting caught in the cylinder when it rotates. in the case of master pins (sometimes used for valet keys), they are also flat pins

i have not looked at the pins for the Pebra keys and do not know their sizes compared to house lock or other car lock pins. but if you get the cylinder out, you can put a different key into the cylinder and place or rearrange the pins to fit flush with the cylinder. if they do not fit exactly (stand proud), you can file the pins down slightly ... if they don't reach the top of the cylinder, you will have a problem of the cylinder not unlocking.

when you re-insert the cylinder into the barrel, again, put it in rotated so the springs don't pop into the other slots

if you do send springs and top pins flying, using a long pair of tweezers, insert the spring into the barrel, followed by the top pin - holding it down while inserting the rod (just to cover that slot), then repeat at the next slot. you need to be careful with the pebra keys as there are pins on both sides of the key which makes things more difficult.
Click to expand...

I attempted that but have had no luck :( I was hoping for a DIY document that goes step by step. When I do solve this mystery, I will post a DIY video for this for the future of others.
 
Add your location to your profile. There are several locksmiths in SoCal that will rekey these locks and cut dimple keys.
 
i can probably do it, i just haven't tried as i have 2 sets of locks + keys ... perhaps i will take one apart + try it or at least look into it. my advice is to send it to somebody who knows what the f*&! they are doing and avoid the headache. if you have done a standard house lock cylinder (many times) then you might feel more confident but a 2 sided cylinder is NOT one to start with IMHO
 
I just finished having duplicate keys made and having one lock re-keyed at Santa Monica and I cannot sing them enough praise. I tortured these poor guys as the key and lock code did not match the key dimples etc. They charged me 50 bucks to re-key my lock to fit the key that fit everything else. They also added some parts that were missing. For the price, it was well worth avoiding the headache. I have re-keyed locks before so I can speak with some experience.
 
bavbob said:
I just finished having duplicate keys made and having one lock re-keyed at Santa Monica. I can say that I tortured these poor guys as the key and lock code did not match the key dimples etc. They charged me 50 bucks to re-key my lock to fit the key that fit everything else. They also added some parts that were missing. For the price, it was well worth avoiding the headache. I have re-keyed locks before so I can speak with some experience.
Click to expand...
Yep Mike has done me well there. Even made a key based on a code on cylinder.
I sent them only the code and the key made worked perfectly.
I’m in Indiana so I couldn’t just stop by there. Lol
 
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