I am thinking of driving to SF in the next couple of weeks for business. If there is a great BMW shop there, I'd like to bring my Coupe in for service. I still have the missing coolant issues, that I have posted about previously, and the I lose about a quart of oil every 2 tanks of gas or so, BUT the car runs really well and does not run hot.
My "list" of things to do is below. I have separately combined all your prior collective comments on the coolant into a single document but will not reprint them here, unless requested.
The coolant level drops to almost nothing after a tank or two of gas, but temperature gauge seems unaffected. bled the air out of the cooling system.
Check that the cooling system holds pressure with coolant system pressure tester.
Use a white or light colored cloth or paper towel and carefully go over the hoses, carbs, bottom of the manifolds, water inlet, water pump, and heater area. A small leak can be almost undetectable unless you wipe it with something absorbent. Use a mirror for under the manifold. I've seen them corrode from tiny leaks. A hose will never seal against corrosion, it will just seep. In general from what you describe look for something that is above the bottom elevation of the tank since the level appears to lower and stop. Leaks from around the rear carb appear on the block behind the starter and are not easily seen. See below for additional thoughts and ideas.
Get a new cap or turn 180 degrees to see if the tank neck is a little off.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI
Check compression numbers are consistent and accurate.
valve guide seals need to be replaced- need valve job
Replace rings.
Front seatbacks don’t lock into place, the back portion. very dangerous if accident.
Weather strip on passenger door lose
wood shift knob needs screw (in glove box)
rubber seal on inside drivers door jam is loose
lower car by removing the spacers between the front struts and the inner fender.
rear passenger window does not go down all the way- compare to the other one. Not a huge deal but would like to fix if easy.
tighten front seatbelt bolts
Parking Brake is hard to operate. Tighten?
Loosen both headrests so they can be operated easily. I can’t them to go up/down, but was told this is just a matter of brut force to lift.
Each seat has two posts that can easily become rusted to the guides (no 8 in the diagram). I have seen a few stuck headrests move with a light amount of wiggling, a careful squirt of penetrating oil and the use of a rubber mallet. Others have required far more persuasive measures, e.g., removing the seat backs to expose the guides. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8951)
Wind noise from driver side windows.
Take it back for adjustment of the glass. There are adjustments inside the door; but look carefully on the bottom of the door for two nuts which angle the glass in or out.
Several thoughts:
Dollar bill in the opening, pull, some resistance or not. Not; not so good. Hair drier, blown from the inside out, feel with your hand or use a spray bottle with water and a little soap. ( Usually used for a windshield; but will work on a door.) Some rubber seals can be shimmed with another sliver of seal which is normally what a new car dealer does with a complaint like this.
Could also be the small gap at the B pillar where the door, glass and rubber meet by the lock button.
If you have older or even the original weather seals on the vent, cabin openings and quarter windows - and that's a lot of rubber - they will have taken on the imprint of the glass as well as hardened and cracked so when the alignment changed how they contact the glass you get more and possibly new noise. Given the absence of a B pillar and all the operating glass these are going to be noisy anyway.
Nicad's idea of taping off areas to identify the worst individual sources is a good one but in order to do something about it you probably have to start replacing some or all of the rubber which is somewhat costly and will have a learning curve in the technique.
the cigarette lighter doesn't work. could be just a fuse, but VERY important that I have adequate power to run radar AND charge my cellphone, which doesn’t appear to be the case now. THIS IS CRITICAL
very minor: the bmw logo on steering wheel is still slightly off
Change the antennae to something more period.(Chrome Hirschman)
The left rear tail light has a small crack
refinish wood dashboard
get chrome bumpers
My "list" of things to do is below. I have separately combined all your prior collective comments on the coolant into a single document but will not reprint them here, unless requested.
The coolant level drops to almost nothing after a tank or two of gas, but temperature gauge seems unaffected. bled the air out of the cooling system.
Check that the cooling system holds pressure with coolant system pressure tester.
Use a white or light colored cloth or paper towel and carefully go over the hoses, carbs, bottom of the manifolds, water inlet, water pump, and heater area. A small leak can be almost undetectable unless you wipe it with something absorbent. Use a mirror for under the manifold. I've seen them corrode from tiny leaks. A hose will never seal against corrosion, it will just seep. In general from what you describe look for something that is above the bottom elevation of the tank since the level appears to lower and stop. Leaks from around the rear carb appear on the block behind the starter and are not easily seen. See below for additional thoughts and ideas.
Get a new cap or turn 180 degrees to see if the tank neck is a little off.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI
Check compression numbers are consistent and accurate.
valve guide seals need to be replaced- need valve job
Replace rings.
Front seatbacks don’t lock into place, the back portion. very dangerous if accident.
Weather strip on passenger door lose
wood shift knob needs screw (in glove box)
rubber seal on inside drivers door jam is loose
lower car by removing the spacers between the front struts and the inner fender.
rear passenger window does not go down all the way- compare to the other one. Not a huge deal but would like to fix if easy.
tighten front seatbelt bolts
Parking Brake is hard to operate. Tighten?
Loosen both headrests so they can be operated easily. I can’t them to go up/down, but was told this is just a matter of brut force to lift.
Each seat has two posts that can easily become rusted to the guides (no 8 in the diagram). I have seen a few stuck headrests move with a light amount of wiggling, a careful squirt of penetrating oil and the use of a rubber mallet. Others have required far more persuasive measures, e.g., removing the seat backs to expose the guides. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8951)
Wind noise from driver side windows.
Take it back for adjustment of the glass. There are adjustments inside the door; but look carefully on the bottom of the door for two nuts which angle the glass in or out.
Several thoughts:
Dollar bill in the opening, pull, some resistance or not. Not; not so good. Hair drier, blown from the inside out, feel with your hand or use a spray bottle with water and a little soap. ( Usually used for a windshield; but will work on a door.) Some rubber seals can be shimmed with another sliver of seal which is normally what a new car dealer does with a complaint like this.
Could also be the small gap at the B pillar where the door, glass and rubber meet by the lock button.
If you have older or even the original weather seals on the vent, cabin openings and quarter windows - and that's a lot of rubber - they will have taken on the imprint of the glass as well as hardened and cracked so when the alignment changed how they contact the glass you get more and possibly new noise. Given the absence of a B pillar and all the operating glass these are going to be noisy anyway.
Nicad's idea of taping off areas to identify the worst individual sources is a good one but in order to do something about it you probably have to start replacing some or all of the rubber which is somewhat costly and will have a learning curve in the technique.
the cigarette lighter doesn't work. could be just a fuse, but VERY important that I have adequate power to run radar AND charge my cellphone, which doesn’t appear to be the case now. THIS IS CRITICAL
very minor: the bmw logo on steering wheel is still slightly off
Change the antennae to something more period.(Chrome Hirschman)
The left rear tail light has a small crack
refinish wood dashboard
get chrome bumpers
