Door latch alignment

[texcarguy]

My door latch is just a bit too snug. I have to close the door like I'm mad at it to get a complete close. Would like to adjust the latch mechanism so it is not quite so tight, but I don't see any adjustment possibility, either on the door itself or on the door post.

The blue books give no guidance on latch adjustment that I can see.

Am I missing something obvious?

 

[cpeavey]

If you have the blue books, you should be all set! Check out section 51 21 001, "Front door striker plate - replacing". It explains how the striker plate in the door jamb is actually adjustable.

If your door is out of alignment, Chapter 41 covers adjusting the door hinges.

Charlie

 

[texcarguy]

Door alignment

Thanks Charlie!

If these books just had a complete index, we'd have something!
This makes it very clear, now I know where to adjust

Phil

 

[pmansson]

Door lock striker plate adjustment

The blue book talks about attaching the plate lightly, then closing the door and testing....
but if done too lightly, the doorlock will move the striker plate.

This is a difficult job, I find. Slamming the door does no good at all, quite the contrary. A firm push with the hand near the lock barrel works better. To get the doors level with the rear side panels, calls for this firm push, esp when the door seals are new.

It would be nicer if a softer door closing action worked, but then the striker plates have to be moved, with a non-flush door/rear side panel result....

Any other opinion on this?

 

[Bertocchi]

It was crazy to come across this thread tonight. I spent the better part of the afternoon adjusting my passengers door. I still do not have the window glass in the correct spot (there is a gap at the top) and my chrome trim is not even with the rear quarter. The door does shut nicely now though?
It is a bit of a jig saw puzzle. Need to buy a set of blue books to learn about repairing old, sagging hinges.

David

 

[pmansson]

Hi David,

how did you get it to close nicely? I take it you mean that a gentle close gets the door flush with the rear side panel.... (I hold a business card with the middle over the gap between door and rear panel, and aim for a good, even fit, but with new door seals this is very difficult/impossible to arrive at. Hence the quite firm shut, often calling for a second attempt to avoid the door being shut at just the half way locking position).

 

[texcarguy]

Solution to Door Latch closing

I stopped by my independent BMW mechanic the other day, and he noticed how hard I had to slam the door to get it to close. Turns out, there is supposed to be a little plastic cap that fits over the small "tit" on the door striker (the part on the door). In the absence of a part, I just cut a small piece of rubber hose and slipped it over the tit. Wow... amazing difference on how easy to close!

Later, on another trip, I thanked my guru for the tip. Then he mentioned he might have a pair of those caps laying around. He rummaged through his boxes, and sure enough, came up with a pair.

I slipped those on, and immediately my doors were transformed! Just a light pull now will positively latch the door! It seems this extra plastic/rubber piece is necessary to "trip" the catch on the door

 

[Bertocchi]

It seems this extra plastic/rubber piece is necessary to "trip" the catch on the door

Great tip! I am assuming that this is the piece on the door jam? The stud, so to speak, that has the phillips screw going through it? This might raise my door enough to align everything and seems like something that could have broken off years ago without a trace?

David

 

[Bwana]

I stopped by my independent BMW mechanic the other day, and he noticed how hard I had to slam the door to get it to close. Turns out, there is supposed to be a little plastic cap that fits over the small "tit" on the door striker (the part on the door). In the absence of a part, I just cut a small piece of rubber hose and slipped it over the tit. Wow... amazing difference on how easy to close!

Later, on another trip, I thanked my guru for the tip. Then he mentioned he might have a pair of those caps laying around. He rummaged through his boxes, and sure enough, came up with a pair.

I slipped those on, and immediately my doors were transformed! Just a light pull now will positively latch the door! It seems this extra plastic/rubber piece is necessary to "trip" the catch on the door

Photos?

 

[pmansson]

Grey plastic cap

Texascarguy means just what he says.
They are available from W&N and surely Maximilian too.

They are tricky to mount. One hand holds it in place with a pair of pliers, the second hand holds a piece of wood on top of it, the plastic part being held over the metal pin (needs to be pulled over to the first click, making it stand vertically, and the 3rd hand hits the wood with a good hammer blow.

I wasn´t aware that it facilitated closing the door as explained, esp. using less power.
It avoids metal against metal when the door first hits the striker plate.

 

[shanon]

Yes.... LOL: a very timely post! I have been having 'door closing envy' as of late.

Any pics of this 'fix/remedy' appreciated

;-)
-shanon

 

[MMercury]

Yes.... LOL: a very timely post! I have been having 'door closing envy' as of late.

Any pics of this 'fix/remedy' appreciated

;-)
-shanon

part no 51211809735.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/368199

 

[texcarguy]

Picture of the door latch "aide"

Okay, here's a picture of the little part in question. It's the little grey plastic cap that slips right over the top of the door latch (This is the latch ON the door, NOT the door jamb).

I had no problem at all installing mine, in fact, just slipped them on out in the parking lot.

As I mentioned, as a quick-fix alternative, just find a piece of rubber hose with an appropriate I.D. that will slip over the post... cut yourself off a piece about 1/2" long and slip it on. Not quite as good as the real item, but you'll be amazed at the positive difference.

I'd venture to say that not one out of ten bimmers of this age still have this part intact!