Door lock latches

[pmansson]

Why are these door so hard to get to close properly in a civilized way, and on the first try?
Of my 12 doors, I would say that 3-4 are what I call perfect, closing in a similar way to modern cars´doors.

The others typically take 2-3 tries before closing properly. I prefer to close them with my right arm across my body and holding the rear end of the door (with the window all the way down).

Some cars have the new latches (the part attached to the B-post) which are slightly different in size to the original ones. Similar difference the the end plate on the door, outside the rubber wedge. I think the original ones are the better ones with the shutting action in mind.

Some cars have new door seals, which might cause more resistance

Any tricks or experiences that might get a few more doors to work properly?

 

[Sven]

I noticed three items that affected the operation of my doors:

1. I was missing the small plastic cap that mounts to the prong on the door latch (the piece on the door itself, that rotates as the door closes). This apparently is important to the operation.

2. The rotating latch needs to move freely, snapping into place as the door is closed. It should snap open when the interior door handle it pulled. Mine were stiff and gummed up.

After addressing these two things and a bit of adjustment to the alignment, they now work great.

 

[pmansson]

Thanks Sven.
The plastic caps are in place and in good shape on all locks. I agree that they are important.

The rotating end moves freely on all locks, as they have been out, cleaned, oiled and tested.

I suspect the new door seals, but then I have the issue on some doors with 35 year old seals. One can feel the resistance caused by the new seals when closing the doors, on that last bit where the seals begin to touch the doors. I.e. one needs more power when closing the doors. 2 fingers will NOT shut the door, quite the contrary !!

 

[Sven]

Have you tried moving the fixed rubber stop on the 'B' pillar outwards a bit? I think there is a very fine line for the stop's position: too far out and the door will stick out noticeably from the body panel, too far in, it will not latch without excessive pressure and compression of the gaskets.

 

[pmansson]

"fixed rubber stop" ?????
The latch is one piece with the directional guides at the top and the thick bar at the bottom. No rubber there!!

Yes, I have moved that plate/latch around, and agree entirely with your point about finding the exact right position.

Problem is: to get the door and rear side panels to line up, I need to bring the latch in which in turn makes the closing more difficult.

There are 2 locking steps: first the security position, and further in, the shut position.
If I bring the latch too far in, the door will not reach the shut position, but remain in the security position with the door sticking out almost 1/2".

(my Jaguars from the 60s are far easier to adjust and then close with "2 fingers")

 

[Sven]

I have never been able to use just "2 fingers" - but a continuous firm pressure of the whole hand until the latch clicks. I would not characterize is as slamming though.

 

[pmansson]

Current issue, after changing the position of the latch slightly about 15 times, is that the door will shut after about 5 attempts, but then slip out/over to the security position, i.e. 1/2" ajar. This happens when I ride over the slightest bump.

Very annoying and frustrating!!

 

[pmansson]

Finally solved it

I came to the conclusion that the door lock mechanism (inside the door) was faulty.

I did a test whereby I could tap open the little arm (with a grey hood), when it was in the closed position, using a piece of wood and a hammer. This was impossible on the passenger door). This explains why it had kept jumping from fully locked to part locked position, as I drove over bumps at low speeds.

Anyway, I changed the lock for one of my many spares. Having done this operation many times, it took me just one hour from start to finish, everything included (and that includes removing the door card as I, erroneously, thought I had forgotten to tighten the 3 screws that hold the triangular door opening arm on the inside).

Now it works beautifully. Time for another beer !!

When I look at the faulty door lock, I cannot see anything that is different from the others.
I hope that this can be of use to others on the board.....
Peder

(PS the real bummer is opening and tightening of the thin nut that secures the door lock cylinder, which must be removed in order to get the door lock mechanism out).