Door window motors

[pmansson]

Thought I´d share the following with you (and many of you might already know it).
It is a well known fact that the early window mechanisms with the sardine can motors work a lot faster than the later ones. I think it changed in 1974 or late 73 (but don´t understand why....)
Today I tried to mount the early package in the later door (doors must have been changed during a restoration about 20 years ago. The car was made in Sept 72).
The early package fits and the holes match, although it uses different holes than the later package.
BUT, it doesn´t work well at all. Something prevents the easy movement and causes the fuses under the dash to pop. There is also a part grinding noise. It doesn´t help to release the upper screws. What a pity esp as the holes match.
So I cleaned the existing/later package and put it back again. Works a bit faster but still nowhere near as fast as the cars with the early package.

 

[deQuincey]

did you checked the motors alone with a spare battery ?
checked cables for a bad ground or a slight cut in the cables that causes the fuses to pop?
checked the gear box for dry fat and cleaned it ?

i can npt understand it neither !

 

[pmansson]

The later package is perfect

All cleaned, fresh grease, good cables and good cable mounting box (the black one).
I understand you points, but it was physical hindrance that caused the strain, slow speed and popping of the fuses. Something doesn´t fit physically behind the inner door panel. Or rather, it fits but there isn´t enough clearance. This is what I think at any rate.

 

[matthewp]

sounds like the gears are not meshing and are binding.

 

[HB Chris]

The motors changed in early calendar year 1973 along with the arms/mechanisms and circuit breakers were added. It could be the arms just aren't meant for early motors.

 

[pmansson]

Not interchangeable

Thank Chris, but the early motors have their mechanism and the later ones their own. Motors will not fit the other (not even remotely possible).

 

[HB Chris]

Yes Peder, that is what I thought.

 

[Honolulu]

IIRC you can separate the motor from the trans. The motor has a worm gear, the trans has a "normal" gear. My guess is that you need to get in there see whether one or the other has stripped, and if so, are the stripped bits binding in the trans case.

Possibly the regulator mechanism can be installed without the motor, and worked up-down to see what could be binding.

If it's all back together and working, though, I might just leave well enough alone.