Driver's door doesn't stay open.

decampos

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Any mechanism there may be for keeping the door open or half open appears not to work on this door. I currently have the door card off and have noticed a piece of metal lying loose at the bottom, looks like it may have snapped off of a thing that looks as though it may be responsible for keeping the door open. Any ideas/suggestions on how I can resolve this?
Many thanks
Ben
 

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Yes your door stop is broken. BMW has an improved design for this part that is a bolt in replacement and will last forever. I recall it was in the 60 US $ range when I replaced it.

I hear there are adaptations to cheaper stops from a 320 or so.
 
Remember that you will need a new pin from a 2002 model and the plastic sleeve from the pin area on your old brake. I use a chisel to spread the rod so that sleeve falls out.
 
Some of the door stops for the lighter cars won't hold the heavier doors of the CS open very well....
I took a chance and bought a door stop for my wife's '99 MB SL500 (it has HEAVY doors)..... from AutoHausAZ for about $38 (1297200116)

It turned out to be a perfect bolt in. it was the correct length and was up to holding the heavy door...
Yes, you do need the bushing out of the old one and a 5 mm bolt to replace the pin.
DaveG
 
Thanks for the info chaps. Just to put this thread to bed, I found an E12/E28 on ebay for pretty cheap, was in no way an easy swap, much modification and adjustment needed but it's now in place and works well. Photograph shows gobs of grease which I applied trying to quieten it down a bit, quite a pronounced 'CLICK, CLACK!' noise. Might just be because the door car is still off.
 

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TPhotograph shows gobs of grease which I applied trying to quieten it down a bit, quite a pronounced 'CLICK, CLACK!' noise. Might just be because the door car[d] is still off.

In my limited experience, a dry door brake will usually creak or emit some scraping sound. As described by others in the thread, a loose connection at the forward portion of the body (rt hand side of pictures) can cause the "click-clack" noise you describe. There are a number of ways to address it (mentioned in other posts) including a thicker pin or a plastic/urethane bush. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8K-TyGPY9rk On a rare occasion, the "U" attachment point on the body (more "tangs"?), breaks or loosens enough to cause a similar noise.

From your picture, the brake you used has a smaller (less thick) attachment point than the original you replaced, or the few replacements with which I am familiar (See bottom picture at 6 o'clock - similar style, different application). This size difference doesn't make it unworkable, but by concentrating the load, it could contribute to the noise you hear.

hth.

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Hi MMercury. Thanks for your reply and diagnosis. I've used a thicker pin and the noise is now acceptable so thanks for that. The whole thing is a bit of a temporary fix though as it's just not stock enough looking. Will start scavenging in junk yards to find a more suitable one.
 

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Snap!

I've been working in the passenger side door doing a few other small jobs. I examined the original door brake and sure enough, it looks a dumb design. The next time I opened the door, CRACK! It broke right in front of me. Oh well, at least I know what to do this time.
 

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