driveshaft coupling

bimmerboy73

bimmerboy73

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another question for everyone. Still waiting for the coupe to ship but in the meantime am trying to assemble as many of the parts i was told need attention as possible. I'm looking to replace a worn driveshaft coupling but am not sure which to purchase. The car already has the 3.5 transplant along with the getrag 5 speed tranny. Should i be purchasing the e9 coupling or the later model (e28 or 24?). Does it matter?

Sorry if this is a dumb question. - Just a new guy trying to find his way... :)
 
When you say "drive shaft coupling", are you talking center bearing, or the giubo/hardischeibe/flexdisk?

The center bearing is pretty much universal from 2002's to the e28 and late e24's. There are two part numbers, but they overlap, and my observation is they are the same, it's just a superseded number.

The hardischeibe is shared by e3/e9/e12/early e23 and early e24, then at the e28 it changes. Which one you need will depend on the output shaft and drive line installed in your car in the swap. It might be worth waiting to see what you have.
 
the part i'm referring to is indeed the guibo or hardy disc. The PO didnt mention anything about the drive shaft being replaced during the swap. would this be typical to do? Thanks for the help!
 
The driveshaft should have at least been rebuilt, but it is possible it wasn't if the coupe was originally an auto, as apparently that driveshaft will fit with a Getrag 265 without modification. Otherwise, it has been shortened sometime in its life, and likely rebuilt at that point.
 
Because it's my favorite nit-pick -- it's "giubo", not "guibo", and it's pron. "joo-bo", not "gwee-bo".

Everyone may now try to correct me, and I will be forced yet again to trot out the story of Antonio Boschi, Pirelli Co. engineer and inventor of said giubo, or, as it was originally known, giunti Boschi... :p
 
Its all starting to make sense. I wondered why it was called that but was always afraid to ask for fear of looking like the 'new guy'.

Thanks for the explanation.
 
Giubo vs. Guibo vs. long nose spark plug?

velocewest said:
Because it's my favorite nit-pick -- it's "giubo", not "guibo", and it's pron. "joo-bo", not "gwee-bo".

Everyone may now try to correct me, and I will be forced yet again to trot out the story of Antonio Boschi, Pirelli Co. engineer and inventor of said giubo, or, as it was originally known, giunti Boschi... :p
Click to expand...

Tony, you are absotively correct. Unfortunately, if you want to order a hamburger, and you know that is exactly what you want, it matters little that you are correct when the only waiter in the joint knows the item only as "bifsteak." Translation, if mine is broken and the parts counter guy calls it a "zilbo", who am I to argue?:wink:

On an unrelated matter, I was just reading some old posts and noticed you recommended long nose sparking plugs. I have some WLS's. Are you sure they wont interfere with the valves? Hope you are right! :idea:
 
"if mine is broken and the parts counter guy calls is a zilbo, who am I to argue?"

Well... There is that. :p

I have WLS's in the 9:1 comp 2800CS, and also ran them in my 10:1 comp 3.5 in my e12. The difference in length is 2mm, not enough to get any piston contact going.
 
how about valve contact?

velocewest said:
"I have WLS's in the 9:1 comp 2800CS, and also ran them in my 10:1 comp 3.5 in my e12. The difference in length is 2mm, not enough to get any piston contact going.
Click to expand...

Have you ever looked at the head with the screwed in spark plug and noticed how little clearance exists between the opened valve and the plug electrode? It is tight. I would wonder if you pushed things rev-wise, whether with the heat and stretching of things you wouldn't make kiss-kiss between everything. I have a bare head and was going to put at least one or two valves in to test this theory. Any idea why others, including the factory, are not using this setup?

Sorry for changing the topic.

Thanks
 
I wouldn't worry about the valves at all. The cars for which BMW spec'd WLS plugs -- Motronic E23's, E24's and E28s -- have EXACTLY the same combustion chamber and valve size as your car and my car.

And if it's any help, I rev the p*** out of my 2800CS every chance I get. I don't baby it.
 
driveshaft

Re driveshaft. Just discovered that the car was originally an automatic. transplanted transmission is the getrag 265. So the giubo should match the 265? - Sorry, just want to be sure...

NM - just re-read an earlier post that answered this...
 
Re: driveshaft

bimmerboy73 said:
Re driveshaft. Just discovered that the car was originally an automatic. transplanted transmission is the getrag 265. So the giubo should match the 265? - Sorry, just want to be sure...

NM - just re-read an earlier post that answered this...
Click to expand...

The type of coupling doesn't really seem to matter - if it fits, I do not know why you can't use it.

I don't believe you actually described the exact style of flex disk you have. I mention this since there seems to be two choices: (1)the (fat and round) solid rubber and (2) thin and laminated. There is evidently a urethane version that will fit too, but I think it is designed and sold primarily for Merkur 4Xti's. Choice no. 2 was typically used with automatics and later models. I do not know this for a fact, but I strongly suspect the automatic style is the stronger of the two styles. I had a 635 manual that used the leaner laminated style.
 
Giubo joint

Use the same as you now have. Visual inspection will quickly reveal which it is. Then you will have changed nothing dimensionally.

Even if you change from one to the other, there is a sliding splined section at the center joint which will take up the difference between the thick and thin versions.

Don't re-use a used disc no matter how good it looks. DAMHIK, IJK.
 
Re: Giubo joint re-use

Honolulu said:
Don't re-use a used disc no matter how good it looks. DAMHIK, IJK.
Click to expand...

I can guess your reasons for not recommending re-use, but doesn't that apply to just about everything that wears, including tires, pistons, bushings, strut cartridges and sparking plugs? I mention this because the fat donut style can have cracks or distortions that are easily overlooked, but if you think about it, it absorbs quite a bit of punishment on a daily basis and after all it is under constant compression too.

Confession: I have used the donut from my Mercedes in my e9 without incident and that has been going on 10 years. On the other hand, I have used a new donut on another car (Fiat) and it flew apart within 2000 miles. From the Fiat experience, it gave plenty of warning - vibration. As far as the laminated "thinner" style coupler, it seems far more robust that the fat donut and is not compressed, so I am not sure why a fairly new disk of this sort could not be re-used.

At bottom, a lot has to do with your idea of insurance. If you detest the notion of replacing something frequently and your labor or time or both are at a premium, I agree that reusing many parts, including flex disks is probably a bad bet. I suppose that if you frequently drive on Molakai or the Hana road to hell, there really isn't much of an argument. Okay, Honolulu, where did you break down? :? How late were you to Don Ho's final performance :wink: (just kidding!)
 
Break down? Don HO?

The failing re-used Joo-bow was on a friend's 2002. When they go, they're gone. Another pal brought by his 220,000-mile 528e with a vibration at speed, the classic sign of a failing/failed joint. I crawled under and the joint was a mass of threads.

Another reason not to re-use them is that the new ones expand after installation when you take of the metal strip around the perimeter. Now, you can apply energy to get the bolts in anyway...

It sounds like I have some experience with these things, doesn't it?

I NEVER went to see Don Ho and now I never will. Cry me a river? I think not. He may have been real popular with the tourists but to me that was all schmaltz for the oldies.

My wife taught high school math to one of his kids, Hoku, who had some fair commercial success of her own.
 
If it is the original drive shaft you want to think about sending it to Oceanside Drive Line. Jerry Harder specializes in coupe and 2002 drive shafts and rebuilds all of Carl Nelson's drive shafts. He replaces the U joints with a non-staked U joint, replaces the center bearing, balances it and paints it. I think he charges about $150.00 but it has been a few years since I talked with him.

Scott
 
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