So despite looking here and in the 2002 boards I could not find step by step directions to replace the E3 torsion bar. I will add that it is totally different from an E9 since I have done both. My bar has never worked in the 12 years I have owned the car and I had no idea if it was mounted correctly. Common knowledge that these fail because either the spring in the bar brakes, the bar cracks or the brackets get distorted.
1) Hood propped wide open. Best to move both horns which mount to the hood, they just get in the way.
2) Also best to have a helper, I did not. I used rope run through one of the hood mounts to hold the bar elevated and in the vicinity of the hood mount while I dealt with the other side.
3) The bar bracket mounts to the torsion bar such that the "L" spring in the bar points away/down from the beveled side of the bracket as shown here:
this is one of the simple details I could not find anywhere. Yes we presume yours was on correctly and you just replace exactly like you found it....but mine was on upside down and I did not know it.
4) Here is the orientation of my new ($9 yes Steve!) bracket on the torsion bar and torsion bar arm before mounting on the hood bracket. The beveled side faces up and eventually against the hood. The torsion arm should face forward with the arm that joins the fender pointing upwards.
5) Attach the bar to the hood bracket, the first screw is easy with wide open access, the second is a bit difficult since you have to get it between the new bracket and the torsion arm. I guess this is why the screws are short.
6) Once both sides are on, I lowered the hood and propped it open with a shorter piece of wood. Rotate the torsion arm which is under tension, counter clockwise and attach to the fender. When you do this, you will see why the horns were moved out of the way.
7) I opened and closed the hood a few times to see where the fender connection would naturally sit before I secured it. Where you secure it does affect how the hood sits when closed so there is some messaging that goes on here.
Maybe common knowledge but hopefully this puts to rest any issues.
1) Hood propped wide open. Best to move both horns which mount to the hood, they just get in the way.
2) Also best to have a helper, I did not. I used rope run through one of the hood mounts to hold the bar elevated and in the vicinity of the hood mount while I dealt with the other side.
3) The bar bracket mounts to the torsion bar such that the "L" spring in the bar points away/down from the beveled side of the bracket as shown here:
this is one of the simple details I could not find anywhere. Yes we presume yours was on correctly and you just replace exactly like you found it....but mine was on upside down and I did not know it.
4) Here is the orientation of my new ($9 yes Steve!) bracket on the torsion bar and torsion bar arm before mounting on the hood bracket. The beveled side faces up and eventually against the hood. The torsion arm should face forward with the arm that joins the fender pointing upwards.
5) Attach the bar to the hood bracket, the first screw is easy with wide open access, the second is a bit difficult since you have to get it between the new bracket and the torsion arm. I guess this is why the screws are short.
6) Once both sides are on, I lowered the hood and propped it open with a shorter piece of wood. Rotate the torsion arm which is under tension, counter clockwise and attach to the fender. When you do this, you will see why the horns were moved out of the way.
7) I opened and closed the hood a few times to see where the fender connection would naturally sit before I secured it. Where you secure it does affect how the hood sits when closed so there is some messaging that goes on here.
Maybe common knowledge but hopefully this puts to rest any issues.