e9 Project

[Upset99]

Last august, I picked up a 74 3.0cs with a A/C off Ebay with almost no rust. She was obviously restored years ago.

Right now she is being repainted the same Standox Polaris silver and the "little rust" is being fixed. There is a little bondo between the front wheels and the doors from the doors opening too much in the past. I wish I could have replaced with new steel but was told that it was not possible.

Interior? I scored a pair of period correct Scheel seats off Ebay for $1350..the ones that recline. I think they are more functional than the non-reclining versions that are on the CSL. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sche...a 4004 mirrors (<135) also at a good price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230235518379&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=013.

I won a New set of those rare side eblems at a good price on Ebay BUT "it got lost". Why do so many good deals "get lost"??? It pisses me off. The seller is in Malasia.."great.bmw.deals".

The chrome is in good condition and the bumpers are being polished.

Of course the Engine project is based on a 3.5 M30. I understand that I have to go a TII brake system and a modified water pump housing.

So far, I have picked up a triple 45 weber system (with machined intake manifold and linkage) for $1100, Stahl headers(600) and a Hartge Head ($650) all compliments of Ebay. I still need to pick up a nice mild Cam, Pistons, Rods,lightened flywheel, ect, ect, ect. over the next few months.

Since I live in South Texas where it gets very hot, I will probably have a high performance radiator fabricated.

I want to do the work myself but I do have a REAL race engine rebuilder who will supervise me. I already have a good digital micrometer that I have for my "other" work and he has a very good torque wrench and needless to say, a complete shop. In addition, I have access to a sophisticated machine shop (CDC) with Engineers that finishes the Heads and Blocks for a Big Casting Company in Monterrey/Saltillo Mexico who provides Engines for the Majors.

I do intend to buy the tool to tune all three Webers simultanously.

She has 14in Alpinas but I want the 16in polished aluminum wheels.

She already has the Gertrag 265 5 speed but I will probably upgrade to the "Ultimate" Metric Mechanic version.

My aim is to have a nice honey but who can run as a bat out of hell when I want her too.

With the price of the car, I will probably have about $20-22k in it. Hopefully, the car will be worth lots more....maybe $30K+ but I am NOT interested in selling her. Perhaps upgrading to the "pretty bumpers" from a 72 and front spoiler if I can buy them right.

I am not a die hard purist but I do like only good improvements.

Suggestions or caveats?

When I get her back from the Paint Shop, I will post the photos.

 

[Honolulu]

comments

Yer spending an awful lotta money on your hotrod. It sounds like this is your first coupe. Can I have pieces when you crash?

For carb synchronizing on my Zeniths, I have used the factory tool (works only at idle) and have three Uni-Syns plus adapter for sidedraft Webers. I only need one... The best tool for the purpose, though, is about 8 feet of 1/8" ID clear tubing, with some ATF in it.

but you can make me an offer on one, two or three of the UniSyns... about $20 would take any one of them. email at cgshawaii(at)netscape(dot)net

Brake system: there are three options with Motronic: use a tii booster OR the hydropneumatic system from a 1980s-vintage 5, 6 or 7 series (533, 535, 633, 635, 733, 735), OR Carl Nelson (and others I think) can make up bits to adapt an Ljet fuel/intake to your Motronic motor, and you could keep the present vacuum brake booster.

I would NOT change bumpers.
Charlie

 

[velocewest]

The Metric Mechanic trans is a waste of money. G265's are strong like bull.

The only reason you'd need to go with a tii brake booster is if you intend to use a Motronic intake manifold for injection. Lots of people run tres Webers with the original brake booster.

You may find that 45's are a bit big for street use. 40's are probably a bit easier to jet to run in normal traffic. 45's might want to load up when you're in stop and go if they're jetted to run well at higher speed.

You can get new c-pillar emblems from Carl Nelson at La Jolla Independent.

 

[Upset99]

So for overall general driving, I should dump my 45s Webers and go to the 40s? No problem.

Thank you for input.

Yes, as to your question, it is kinda of my first e9. I own two..but the first one was only bought a few months earlier. The second one I intend to sell after I fix the floor boards. We couldn't find any other rust on her.

In addition, to this E9, I have a 1983 E24 Euro and a E23 turbo, Scottie Sharpe's "old" car. She runs quite well.

I intend to use her (the E9) almost everyday in South Texas where it only rains maybe 30 days a year. For insurance purposes, I am limited to 10K miles per year.