Early, thin brake booster vs the normal one

pmansson

pmansson

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I saw the thin one somewhere. Half as thick. Was apparently fitted to the 2800 CS cars.
Leaves much more space in the cramped engine room (esp if you remove the power steering components, as I just did on one car).

Anybody using it?
Half as effective as the later, thicker, standard 3.0 booster???

And by comparison to the 2002 booster which I have on one car??? This requires a lot of leg pressure to stop the car effectively.
 
My car started as a 2800 so it came with the thinner booster. Works fine. I have upgraded to 3.0 discs and have done away with the rear drums that came with the car. Not sure about availablity though. I think I heard it was discontinued. So it might be hard to find.
 
interesting,

anybody got a pic of this early thin booster, curious if it is in my 2800.

TIA!
-shanon
 
here you are

mine is an early (may 1971) 3.0 CS,

brakes work ok

regards

23r068p.jpg
 
73-75 model brake booster

So we have the thin 2800 model, the normal 3.0 model and a 3rd one introduced in 1973 (perhaps for the 74 and 75 model). That seems to be even larger. I have it on my US `74 CSA. It is so large that we cannot adjust the steering box. We can open the nut, but there is no space for a 1/2" hing Z shaped screwdriver. Hardly space for even a finger on top of the nut.
We are now looking at removing the 3 bolts for the steering box, so that we can lower it slightly and then adjust the box.

Any suggestions or exlplanations?
 
pmansson said:
So we have the thin 2800 model, the normal 3.0 model and a 3rd one introduced in 1973 (perhaps for the 74 and 75 model). That seems to be even larger. I have it on my US `74 CSA. It is so large that we cannot adjust the steering box. We can open the nut, but there is no space for a 1/2" hing Z shaped screwdriver. Hardly space for even a finger on top of the nut.
We are now looking at removing the 3 bolts for the steering box, so that we can lower it slightly and then adjust the box.

Any suggestions or exlplanations?
Click to expand...

You are not alone. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1401

Last time I performed the adjustment on a csi, I recall taking a special open end wrench (thinner than the one pictured below and probably designed for a bicycle or motorcycle) to crack/loosen the adjusting nut. Then, if I remember correctly, I used the shank of jewelers screwdriver or possibly a mini file that snugly fit into the slotted head of the adjusting screw.

It was trial and error to get things right.

hth.


10004004_z.jpg

 
We got the spanner on, and loosened the nut.
We used exactly that screwdriver, but it just would not fit. I get your point about a file or similar, but is the screw easily turned or does it take some force that the file will not give...? It would have to be a short piece of file or metallic saw blade, about 2" long....

Back to the brake booster question: W&N lists pre and post `73 models. Both of which are much thicker than the thin one for the 2800 I presume. What might be the difference here?
Perhaps to do with the attachment for the brake cylinder....?
Or did it get even bigger it itself ??
 
pmansson said:
We got the spanner on, and loosened the nut.
We used exactly that screwdriver, but it just would not fit. I get your point about a file or similar, but is the screw easily turned or does it take some force that the file will not give...? It would have to be a short piece of file or metallic saw blade, about 2" long....

Back to the brake booster question: W&N lists pre and post `73 models. Both of which are much thicker than the thin one for the 2800 I presume. What might be the difference here?
Perhaps to do with the attachment for the brake cylinder....?
Or did it get even bigger it itself ??
Click to expand...

Hard to answer your question about the force required to turn the adjusting screw.

Over the years, as fasteners become tweaked and dirty, working tolerances change. However, in general terms, once the nut is loosened, I have been able to turn the adjusting screw between two fingers. So, for lack of a better description, we are talking "inch/pounds" rather than "foot/pounds." Again, this is not always the case, especially if someone has previously over-torqued any fastener or it has been allowed to rust or become dirty.

hth
 
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