Electric cooling fan

J

jc971

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Guadeloupe 971
Hello

I would like to know if someone has already removed the original fixed fan and replaced it with an electric fan

is the only electric fan sufficient?

I live in a warm country (guadeloupe) it's 30 ° every day
 
I run 2 Spal fans on a performance engine in my E9. One is a puller attached to the radiator and the other a pusher attached to the ac. The pusher is wired to come on with high head pressure on the ac or when engine temps get to a set point. The puller is wired through a temp sensor on the engine.
 
I run the elec pusher fan from E9/E3 aircon cars, and no viscous fan. I have no aircon. I was skeptical at first but this set up does seem to be more than adequate here in the UK. Couldn't comment on cooling adequacy in Guadeloupe!
The mod was done by a PO who raced the car... no viscous coupling = more torque (marginal!)
 
hi guys thanks for your answers

Drew i have the same montage as you I took an air conditioner fan from 735i e32 which I mounted in the nose of the car
I have no air conditioning and no visco I'm going to mount a thermal switch, but I don't know which temperature to choose
 
on early E3/E9 cars, the elec fan (where fitted) is controlled by a small black box fitted to the inner wing, near the airbox. This I think takes a signal from the same coolant temp sender as controls the dash gauge, certainly on my car this sender has a single wire, which is split into two. The black box has a couple of trimmer switches in it, not sure what they do but I assume one controls the trigger temp to run the fan, and the other controls the length of time the fan runs

later cars with elec fans (like in my old 1981 E24) have multiple temp senders in the thermostat housing, ie the elec fan would have a dedicated sender/ switch. So to fit your E32 fan, you may need the stat housing and senders also, plus the loom and relay

or you could just fit a manual switch on your dash!
 
The 74 facelift coupes were the first to get the temp relay/control box and a sender in the radiator to activate the A/C fan.
 
You can replace the fan driven off the engine with a SPAL puller fan, as Drew 20 mentioned was done on his car. This is a fairly easy mod; I did it on my e39 when I changed to an aluminum radiator. To find the size of the puller, look at the dimensions of this pusher Don recommends. Pretty sure SPAL makes both a puller and pusher in any size the offer, so you should be able to find a puller in this same size: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/radiator-recore-or-new-aluminum.28262/post-291385

Here is the wiring diagram for my e39 setup. This is set to run the fans (I have two) at two different speeds. I believe VDO supplies this sensor to Zionsville, and that it is a standard VDO part. Relays are standard Bosch relays. The sensor is actually grounded where it is screwed into the tstat housing; no separate ground is needed.

This diagram is designed to run a fan at at two different speeds. That is the reason for the resistor. Note that the resistor needs to be automotive grade with a heat sink on the outside. It gets very hot and needs to be installed in a location where it can cool, preferably with airflow over it (behind the headlights, for example).


Zionsville Fan Schematic.jpg
 
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I use the 64541392913 2-speed auxiliary fan mounted as a pusher controlled by a 61311378073 dual temperature ( 91°/99° ) switch in my thermostat housing and a Volvo 9442934 2-speed fan control relay wired like this. The N/O contacts contacts in the ground leg of the temperature switch assure that the fan shuts off when you turn off the ignition power.

9gEM2xL.jpg
 
salut
merci pour votre aide et vos informations
je ne suis pas très bon en électricité, je vais essayer de faire le plus simple au départ avec un ventilateur, une vitesse, un contact ..
 
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