embarrassing torque converter removal question

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dp

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it's been so long I can't remember how I last removed the 4 bolts securing the torque converter in an automatic to the flex plate... 17 millimeter and there's just no clearance to speak of at the oil pan... It's just not coming to me can somebody jog my memory...?it's high time to get that dead AT out and convert the car to a 5 speed, tia
 
There is a cover plate on engine side of the tranny toward the bottom, which detaches with three bolts. Removing the plate reveals an opening through which you can loosen one bolt. You then need to turn the engine to get to the other three bolts.

In order to crank the engine by hand, pull the plugs and attach a 36 mm socket to the bolt holding the harmonic balancer. After you loosen the first bolt, turn the crank 90 degrees, and loosen the next bolt. Continue in turn until all four bolts are loose.

dp said:
it's been so long I can't remember how I last removed the 4 bolts securing the torque converter in an automatic to the flex plate... 17 millimeter and there's just no clearance to speak of at the oil pan... It's just not coming to me can somebody jog my memory...?it's high time to get that dead AT out and convert the car to a 5 speed, tia
Click to expand...
 
Ohmess said:
There is a cover plate on engine side of the tranny toward the bottom, which detaches with three bolts. Removing the plate reveals an opening through which you can loosen one bolt. You then need to turn the engine to get to the other three bolts. In order to crank the engine by hand, pull the plugs and attach a 36 mm socket to the bolt holding the harmonic balancer. After you loosen the first bolt, turn the crank 90 degrees, and loosen the next bolt. Continue in turn until all four bolts are loose.
Click to expand...

Thatnk-you yes I get that part but I cannot for the life of me remember what tool I used for the (four) 17mm bolts. There seems no way to find clearance for a socket ratchet or breaker, combination wrench can't grab enough of the head to break it loose, can't get solid access even with extentions or swivels because of the oil pan and steering/subframe. I feel really dumb asking about this cause I probably did at least half a dozen AT to manual conversions but for the life of me cannot remember how or what tool I used on those bolt heads, one at a time, to remove them!
 
I wonder if an extended crows foot would work?
 

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Figure 7:13 shows the problem here.

http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/chapter7/images/autobooks_manual_081.jpg

The bolt sits into a round opening and as dp notes, the head of the bolt is very close to the bottom of the oil pan.

My recollection is that you cannot access the bolt on a 90 degree angle, which is why you can't use a standard box end wrench, an open end wrench, a crow's foot wrench and I believe a zero offset wrench. And oil pan proximity means you cannot use a ratchet.

As noted, I used a deep offset box end wrench:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
 
I see. That pic certainly illustrates an issue I didn't consider. That looks like a tight spot. I can almost see cutting a 1/3 pie slice out of a socket to get that.

Even a shallow socket and on a good small calibre wrench might not fit?

Aside...I like using 1/4 sockets because it keeps me from over-torquing.

ThIs task will be something I will see in the hopefully near futurefas my auto box is leaking like a sieve. Thanks for clarifying.
 
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