engine issues

[Glanceb]

Just a couple of quick questions,

1: Just started the car (2800cs, upgraded engine to djet) after about 2 years off the road, and now there seems to be a high pitch whistle coming from the air intake. Is this normal, the engine sounds fine but the whistle is very puzzling, and I cant seem to find the cause??

2: The car now has a kenlowe blower fan fitted in front of the radiator and the temp light won't turn off and even at full fan speed it can't keep the engine temperature down when the car is stopped. There is only water in the coolant system can you recommend a good coolant for the engine.

3: Can you recommend a good brake fluid, or will any do?

4: I will post some picks when I take it out on the road in about 2 weeks (if it every stops raining in Ireland)

Thanks in advance.

 

[jmackro]

1) Sorry, I have no idea. As an aside, I really like carburetors.

2) OK, so the car stays cool while it is moving, but begins to overheat when stopped. So, the radiator seems to be working OK, but the electric fan isn't. Might the fan be turning in the wrong direction? Or have its blades installed backward so that they are pushing air in the right direction, but not efficiently?

Frankly, any type of antifreeze is OK. I'm sure some are better than others, but compared with just water, generic ethelyne glycol & DI water mixed 50-50 would be a huge improvement. But, it won't solve your cooling problem - it'll just retard corrosion, and of course, not crack the block when things freeze.

3) Brake Fluid. Here in the States all brake fluid has to meet a minimum specification, so you can't go too far wrong. Some exotic brands have higher boiling points which is beneficial on a competition car. In my opinion, it is more important to use fresh clean fluid and change it regularly than to get the $50/pint synthetic exotic stuff. I'm sure that others will have opinions here.

4) Great - we like pictures.

 

[OCCoupe]

I had a similar problem with my engine temp. At idle the temp would creep up, at speed it was fine, except on heavy acceleration or hill climb the temp would creep up. I replaced the thermostat with a cooler one and it did not help. I ended up re coring the radiator and viola, problem solve!

 

[Sven]

I had this whistle after converting from carbs to EFI. There appeared to be too much suction at the breather hose connected to the valve cover. I ended up putting in a plug with a smaller diameter hole (directly in the hose). It is easy enough to check: just twist open the cap on the valve cover oil fill so it is loose (no need to take it off all the way) In my case the noise went away immediately.

 

[Sven]

I had this whistle after converting from carbs to EFI. There appeared to be too much suction at the breather hose connected to the valve cover. I ended up putting in a plug with a smaller diameter hole (directly in the hose). It is easy enough to check: just twist open the cap on the valve cover oil fill so it is loose (no need to take it off all the way) In my case the noise went away immediately.

 

[gazzol]

On the overheating issues I concur with jmackro. It would appear that your fan is at fault if it were your radiator it would overheat when you drove the car as well as when it was stood still. Is it big enough to cope (Kenlowe make various sizes of fan) and as jmackro also said is it blowing the right way, not just into the engine bay but in the correct direction with reference to the design of the fan blades?

 

[BarryG]

My fan clutch went bad so i put a electric cooling fan in.It has been over 100 here in NorCal the last few days. I took it out a few time in late afternoon and it runs on the cool side.
About ... that much under half.

 

[blumax]

ovrheat is often caused by failing----

while radiators and thermostats have most often believed to be faulty --many overheat problems arise from failing or faulty original fan clutches--as the clutches wear out and at low speed it may not even engage enough to turn the fan--and five blade fans move barely enough air in hotter climates and the symptoms appear the same.

Start it--let it warm up and raise your bonnet or hood depending on which side of the pond you are on--check to see if fan is engaged. I have had this experience with Coupes and Bavarias--both have the same cooling system systems.

If living in a warmer climate zone keep your brass radiator and have a three row core installed with a modern viscous fan clutch and a nine blade fan--you will not overheat again. With this set-up on BLUMAX I have been in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour in 100 degree F heat with A/C on--no problem.

 

[blumax]

ovrheat is often caused by failing----

while radiators and thermostats have most often believed to be faulty --many overheat problems arise from failing or faulty original fan clutches--as the clutches wear out and at low speed it may not even engage enough to turn the fan--and five blade fans move barely enough air in hotter climates and the symptoms appear the same.

Start it--let it warm up and raise your bonnet or hood depending on which side of the pond you are on--check to see if fan is engaged. I have had this experience with Coupes and Bavarias--both have the same cooling system systems.

If living in a warmer climate zone keep your brass radiator and have a three row core installed with a modern viscous fan clutch and a nine blade fan--you will not overheat again. With this set-up on BLUMAX I have been in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour in 100 degree F heat with A/C on--no problem.