Engine Oil

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NewSixCoupe

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After searching the site, can't seem to find any reference to oil types coupe owners are using. I was thinking about trying Hemmings' high-zinc synthetic blend, but the car's always run organic oil. I've heard that switching to synthetic can cause leaks? Thanks.
 
I am using the Redline 20w50 that Carl Nelson recommends.

Then again, my car has been on jack stands most of the summer, so my oil is not too stressed.
 
Thanks all. Not much turns up with the most obvious searches— "engine oil" or "motor oil"...
 
LenS said:
After searching the site, can't seem to find any reference to oil types coupe owners are using.

so funny, there are at least two or three topics that are sequentially repeated forever, oils, tyres, andfuel aditives,..:smile::).

I was thinking about trying Hemmings' high-zinc synthetic blend, but the car's always run organic oil.

o r g a n i c ? i beg your pardon, might it be mineral instead ?

I've heard that switching to synthetic can cause leaks?

leaks ? ...but why ?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

regards
 
dear lens

only IMHO

when considering oil for your engine first point is location, NJ is new jersey ? so, what is the temperature ratio from winter to summer in the conditions that you use the car ? other way to put it, your coldest cold start is at ... (Celsius please) ?
if your coldest start is at 10 deg celsius you will have no problems even with oils like 15 or 10w40

the second point is in what condition is your engine: do not know, fair, just renewed,...if it is in poor condition synthetic and mineral, both will leak, if it is in good condition then you will have no problems, leakage is not about tolerances, it is about mechanical condition, the great tierfreund said once that our engines are not old engines, but pretty modern ones :)

i would say a semisynth will do the job,

and please, i know that everybody loves aditives, but just do not use them ! refrain from using aditives, there is a key reason for that, you are not a chemist, and the oil that you will buy will not declare which aditives are included already, that makes any chemist hobbist a dangerous man for his engine

additionally, forget about zddp, crucial for british classic cars but not for our bmws, i will give you something to read about this if i can find it again !
 
Searching

Deleted - never mind... I couldn't paste search terms i tried here without gibberish getting generated!...
 
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I am a fan of Valvoline VR1 because of the zinc. I have a 70's Porsche 930 that originally had thermal reactors and not catalytic converters and would like to think the zinc is what the engine wants. However the turbo can really cook non synthetic oil so I go with Brad Penn blended with synthetic and zinc added conventional as a compromise. My son used to have a Passat with a turbo and a catalytic converter and I remember fretting about the well known tar problem so I ran Mobil One. I hate how far the oil pressure light switch is from the source of oil pressure on these old BMWs. The wait to see it go off seems interminable on start up if the car hasn't just been run. That makes me consider the claimed benefits of synthetic oil when it comes to protection in that situation. But, no zinc.

The above is my contribution to the endless discussion and debate on oils. Now, I'll tidy it up; in these pre cat BMW's, VR1 is the way to go. My debatable opinion of course.
 
E24 forum has a huge post on this. Comes down to VR1, or Brad Penn but the zinc content is supposedly low. I have used shell rotella for 25 years and 100k later I can eat off the engine. I think routine change trumps the zinc.
 
15-40 Diesel. Brad Penn used to have a high zinc content too. But, after hearing guys rave about Rotella, and also the reasonable price, I went with the Rotella.
 
A little awkward using Rotella when the container says diesel but hey, somebody also was the first to eat a lobster and found out it was a good thing.
 
I don’t believe the diesel properties are a harmful thing, as oil in a diesel takes a beeting. 15-40 is 15-40 no matter what the brand. I believe the benefit of the Rotella is the high zddp(zinc) content. If you check ingredients of other brands and types of oil you will not find many with a high zddp content
 
I have run standard Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic oil in my 2800CS since I rebuilt the engine over 30 years ago. I have not encountered any wear problems. I may have initially used Duckhams 15W-50 oil because Crevier BMW was recommending it at that time. It became difficult to find so I switched to Valvoline synthetic.

It is my understand the zinc in oil is primarily for break-in of the cam in a flat, solid lifter application. I don't know if overhead cams fall in this category. I put a additive with Zinc, Phosphorous and Molybdenum in my race engines when I rebuild them to help with cam/lifter break-in. I also have a special coating on both an probably don't even need the additive. I just don't want to take any chances. I did notice the rod and main bearings wear longer in the race engines after I started using this additive but I don't add it after break-in until it is rebuild time again. I also use standard Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic in my race car unless I find VR-1 on sale.
 
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