engine overheating

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Knut

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Oslo, Norway
Trying to sort the engine after last winters rebuild. I have a remanufactured head, upgraded fan/clutch, new waterpump, new thermostat, new radiator etc. , but now the engine starts to overheat once I get the car moving. At idle start up, it runs to normal temp. I have not yet managed to set the timing properly. If the timing is off, could it possibly lead to enging overheating?
 
Due to prior e12 head problems, I am super sensitive to exhaust gases in the cooling system. Are you convinced of quality of rebuilt head?...head torque procedure?.....gasket quality? Did you bleed air on coolant fillup? Good luck!
 
Common problem after rebuild- overheating engine with low vacuum= retarded timing.
You may be off by 20* on timing.
Check your vacuum for at least 1 bar and check your timing on flywheel that you are not set at TDC instead of +20* at 2000 rpm.
 
Overheating--a common problem--

Also a fairly common cause with the 5 blade fan--when still fitted with the original old style fan clutch--it will fail you at relatively low miles and unless checked when ehgine is at operating temparature to assure the fan clutch has engaged overheat will also occur--but usually when idling along or stopped in heavy traffic or at traffic signal. Early on this was often the cause of head cracking and warping years ago--especially in our warmer climates that are common throughout the USA. Likely less of a problem in the cooler climates of Western Europe and Scandinavian countries.

Here in the colonies that cause was often mis-diagnosed as a radiator and or a thermostat problem--after replacing radiator and thermostat--overheating problem was often not solved. The solution here in our demanding Western climate and frequent bumper to bumper traffic issues we have solved same by three row radiator cores and a newer viscous fan clutch equipped with a 9 blade fan.
 
First few hot days of the year here in H-town. Out with Sahara, in traffic, heat gauge moved up to within 1/8 inch of the red. Engine would not hold idle stalled would not restart. Hello Heagarty's for a tow.

PO replace heater core. Engine seems to stay cool 1/4 above the blue line when rolling. But stop at the light and up she comes. Coolant looks OK and sufficient.

Is it normal for the temp to react quickly? I have the old red 6 blade and the clutch appears seized (common? not necessarily problematic?).

Time for a new fan and clutch? Go ahead and just replace the thermostat and just chalk it up to hitting the punch list?
 
Temp gauge should stay slightly below 3:00 and only go slightly above if very hot and car is not moving, I would convert to the later clutch and fan, probably do water pump while you're at it.
 
Having somewhate similar problems to John H. in that temp is creeping up in traffic or at idle. My mechanic is suggesting that the fan looks ok and that this may be a radiator issue....he discounted a water pump issue as he felt it would overheat at all times if this was the culprit...
 
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