engine's first start in a number of years

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hyochem

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co springs, goliad/corpus, tx
(these facts may or may not all be accurate, but for the sake of the question we'll assume they are) my 69 european model 2800cs has been in a warehouse since the mid 90's due to a cracked head. the head has been replaced and all that needs to be done for the engine to be complete is the distributer reinstalled and the rocker cover reinstalled. both of these are easy to do but i dont know what to do to an engine taht has not been started in years, what suggestions do you have for me and what is the best route of action to take to ensure that starting it doesn't hurt it after all this time. the vehicle is in decent condition beside the engine and the transmission can be put in neutral. i just want to start it for now
 
first time start

well we've only answered this about a dozen times, but since this is the last time it's gonna come up this year...

it goes something like this:

remove spark plugs
shoot into each cylinder about a couple tablespoons ATF, Marvel Mystery oil, any light oil
remove hot lead from diz
crank until oil pressure is up and idiot light goes out
replace plugs and start 'er up
smoke will come out.
 
Once again- It is never a good idea to disable the ignition by disconnecting the high voltage lead - unless you are into wounding the high voltage components. If you must disable the ignition on the high voltage side, connect the high voltage coil lead to a good ground (engine). It is far better to disconnect the low voltage side of the coil (the little lead that goes to the distributor).
After you build up oil pressure and before you start the engine, check the fuel lines for leaks/seepage. The original German cloth braided fuel lines go porus when not used.
After you get the car started and up to temp, check again for fluid leaks.
If you can't get the car in gear, the clutch may be stuck to the flywheel. That is easy to resolve.
 
---how do i get the flywheel off of the clutch?? i need to do so---


searched the forum and couldn't find the topic; regardless... to the note at the end of the second reply, that may certainly be the case. the clutch pedal does not go down. it is simply frozen in place. the distributor at this point is not attached to the engine. should i leave it unattached while i am performing the procedure for the cylinder preparation or hook it up and do the thing that you suggested? i will certainly look for leaks, thanks for the suggestion.
 
You can turn the engine over without the distributor in. What your trying to achieve is to get the oil (fresh I Hope) pumped around the engine on the starter alone, so make sure your battery is fully charged!

If the clutch is "stuck", aand the pedal is not moving you have the possibility of
1... siezed clutch master cylinder
2... siezed slave cylinder
3... siezed clutch assembly
4... combination of 1 to 3

If you can be under the car while somebody pushes the pedal, do you see any movement in the slave cylinder at all if yes then probably the clutch disk is stuck on the flywheel if no then

if possible open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder, can you pump the pedal - yes means master is probably ok
if you can release the circlip holding the slave cylinder gently press the pedal, does it move - yes then slave is probably ok, if not it could be siezed

To free a stuck clutch one trick is outlined below but be careful!, you need plenty of room!

Start the engine, let it warm up completely,
Turn off engine
Put into low or reverse gear, start engine, drive around you will "kangaroo" a bit! pressing the brakes and clutch, might take a few goes but eventually it should free
Malc

Malc
 
I have used the following technique to free clutch disks stuck to the flywheel - The MGs liked to do this over the winter.

Start and warm up the engine. Shut it off.
With the front wheels very well chocked and the rear end up on jackstands so that the tires (tyres) clear the ground by about an inch, restart the engine with the tranny in 4th gear. The 1:1 ratio and puts the max torque load on the clutch.
Rev it up to 20 mph or so and WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED start to apply the brakes. Sometimes a gradual application of the handbrake is sufficient. If that doesn't succeed, use the service brake and if that doesn't free it try stabbing the brake pedal. You will know when it pops loose.
 
Probably the first thing to check would be the linkage from the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder.
Carefully remove the valance panel underneath the steering column noting where every fastener goes and inspect the pedal arm pivot and the link to the master cylinder.
Try to move the pedal by hand and see if there is any motion in the pivot or MS link.
If there is discernable movement in these joints, then it is time to open the slave cylinder bleed screw and see if the master cylinder is stuck.
 
clutch isn't stuck anymore... car won't start tho. i misread the post and cranked it w/ ATF in the cylinders and the plugs IN rather than out. i will crank it again tonight w/ the plugs out and see how it does when i put them back in

no fuel is getting to the carb's. im replacing the fuel filter tonight. also, when checking for spark, do i just hold the plug near to the engine block and crank it or can the plug just be out in the air? i am unsure of the overall condition of the wiring harness. i also am not sure if the timing is set correctly. i got it as close to TDC as i could by using the mark on the front of the engine and installing the distributor by turning it then pushing it in. what is the best way to see if the timing is correct? i replaced all fuel lines except for the one at the tank. my gas tank has a small crack next to where the filter goes in it. i drained and cleaned (as well as i could) the tank and unclogged the tube filter that sits in the tank. i appreciate any help
 
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