Fitting 123 ignition
- Thread starter ChrisB
- Start date
Please use Search Option. There is plenty of 123 ...
There are positive and antipathetic voices.
It is also worth to ask Uncle Google for help: https://123ignition.com/manuals/123manual_TUNEPLUS.pdf
or directly call to the Manufacturer.
There are positive and antipathetic voices.
It is also worth to ask Uncle Google for help: https://123ignition.com/manuals/123manual_TUNEPLUS.pdf
or directly call to the Manufacturer.
As I recall it is fairly straightforward. Engine at TDC #1 and distributor matches (no physical advance on the distributor).
I hope you have better luck than with regards to oil intrusion up from the engine.
I hope you have better luck than with regards to oil intrusion up from the engine.
1. Put engine at TDC, if unfamiliar with this process then best to confirm by pulling valve cover and observing cam lobes pointing "down" on cyl #1
2. Install the distributor per the manual so the rotor points towards 7:30 pm or so. I heat-shrunk the wires before this to keep a clean look. Find a GOOD ground point. No ballast resistor is used, use a Bosch red coil or similar.
3. Wire your dist cap per the manual so that #1 plug will be over the 7:30 mark when installed.
4. Take some needle nose pliers and bend at the middle the 2 cap snap clamps so that they clamp onto the cap tighter to hold it in place snuggly (another flaw in the design).
5. Advance the dist a little by turning counter-clockwise.
6. Start the engine. If it doesn't catch then advance in small increments until it does. If it starts to backfire then confirm you're not 180 degrees off TDC.
7. Once running, take a timing light and match the flywheel timimg to your software curve if programmable, or if a non-adjustable 123 curve is used then see which curve is selected by the microswitch and then look up the corresponding idle advance degrees in the manual and match that. These need to be physically matched with a timing light. Then tighten the 123 down.
8. If using a programmable curve and say you want your idle to be 950rpm with 10 degrees idle advance, then set the data points to 10 at both 850 and 1050 to keep slight fluctuations in idle rpm from causing advance to increase or decrease. This will prevent the engine from hunting up and down in idle rpm.
9. If using vacuum advance, don't activate it until the above is working. If not, then cap the vac port.
10. Read the 123 oil intrusion thread to be aware of any future issue. Save for this issue which I am trying to solve, it is a great piece of tech.
If you want a sample programmable curve to start with, let me know.
2. Install the distributor per the manual so the rotor points towards 7:30 pm or so. I heat-shrunk the wires before this to keep a clean look. Find a GOOD ground point. No ballast resistor is used, use a Bosch red coil or similar.
3. Wire your dist cap per the manual so that #1 plug will be over the 7:30 mark when installed.
4. Take some needle nose pliers and bend at the middle the 2 cap snap clamps so that they clamp onto the cap tighter to hold it in place snuggly (another flaw in the design).
5. Advance the dist a little by turning counter-clockwise.
6. Start the engine. If it doesn't catch then advance in small increments until it does. If it starts to backfire then confirm you're not 180 degrees off TDC.
7. Once running, take a timing light and match the flywheel timimg to your software curve if programmable, or if a non-adjustable 123 curve is used then see which curve is selected by the microswitch and then look up the corresponding idle advance degrees in the manual and match that. These need to be physically matched with a timing light. Then tighten the 123 down.
8. If using a programmable curve and say you want your idle to be 950rpm with 10 degrees idle advance, then set the data points to 10 at both 850 and 1050 to keep slight fluctuations in idle rpm from causing advance to increase or decrease. This will prevent the engine from hunting up and down in idle rpm.
9. If using vacuum advance, don't activate it until the above is working. If not, then cap the vac port.
10. Read the 123 oil intrusion thread to be aware of any future issue. Save for this issue which I am trying to solve, it is a great piece of tech.
If you want a sample programmable curve to start with, let me know.
Manual for installing the distributor can be found here: https://e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/autobooks_manual.pdf
See page 50...
See page 50...
ray_in_savannah
New Member
Hey Steve, for step #2 will 7:30AM work also, or would that be 180 degrees off?
... Does Ed at 123ignitionUSA make a grooved shaft for the M30? This item alludes to it....
BMW - Shaft, Bushing and Seal rebuild Service 4 and 6 cylinder models
Your US Distributor of electronic ignition distributors for classic cars 123ignition
Cheers,
Ray
Go back to the FAQ!!Hey Steve, for step #2 will 7:30AM work also, or would that be 180 degrees off?
Yes, I had it and put the plain one back in - see the 123 oil leak thread for my latest exploits there.
ray_in_savannah
New Member
Ooof. Obviously your motor oil is too thin. I suggest running this instead of your fancy thin synthetic.
(P.S. for others reading: don't do this!)
(P.S. for others reading: don't do this!)