This is the little seal that goes on the top lip of the firewall, isolating the engine bay from the trough where the heater sits. Can not seem to bend the seal enough to install around the 2 bends at each end. Any helpful hints would be appreciated. I almost cut it in frustration!! Thanks in advance
fitting firewall to hood seal ?
- Thread starter 2ma2
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Is it from BMW? It should bend fairly easily.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Is my memory correct that it has metal embedded in it, or does it?
Feels like it does but it is actually hard plastic. I had to cut a little off the end as it was tool long. In short, hot water did not help, in the end I had to slightly reshape the metal edge it goes on-transforming the sharp turns into a slightly rounded shape. Still took a lot of force to seat it. Also replaced the hood seal by the windshield as well as the torsion bar support for the hood. Now the hood does not look closed properly. I lowered the latches at the firewall but it still sits a little high. I am guessing the new seal will compress in due course.
pmansson
Well-Known Member
Here is the truth about this part (ending with 531):
The all plastic part that is currently available in N. America will never fit. It it too stiff to make the "chicane" or double bends. I even tried cutting it in several sections, which works, but does not look good.
I don´t know why Maximilian and others sell it. It just doesn´t work. I know as I tried them twice.
The original part has those small clamps inserted in the rubber base and fits well. I think, but need to verify W&N, that they are still available.
The all plastic part that is currently available in N. America will never fit. It it too stiff to make the "chicane" or double bends. I even tried cutting it in several sections, which works, but does not look good.
I don´t know why Maximilian and others sell it. It just doesn´t work. I know as I tried them twice.
The original part has those small clamps inserted in the rubber base and fits well. I think, but need to verify W&N, that they are still available.
Would a heat gun help?
pmansson
Well-Known Member
Cheaper
I think it´s a question of saving money. The sad thing is that BMW permits this ****ty product to carry their name and be sold by them.
I think it´s a question of saving money. The sad thing is that BMW permits this ****ty product to carry their name and be sold by them.
Photo requests pls.
This is a problem. I've seen dented hoods at the junction of all of these subject seals from those that have forced the hood into position.
Is there a proper sequence?
Is it necessary to trim the metal gutter?
Drag a sheet of paper to make sure there's a seal but the hood is able assume a closed position?
This is a problem. I've seen dented hoods at the junction of all of these subject seals from those that have forced the hood into position.
Is there a proper sequence?
Is it necessary to trim the metal gutter?
Drag a sheet of paper to make sure there's a seal but the hood is able assume a closed position?
After I replaced my torsion bar the hood sat a little high on driver's fender but the hood was now aligned perfectly as before it looked a little crooked. If you have the right height in front and at latch you just live with it, it isn't the seals. Be sure to check the rubber adjuster at the front corners.
If you cut a 2-3 mm notch out of the hard plastic on the inside bend then it fits fairly well. When the correct amount is removed then the plastic ends will come together at the bend and will not be noticeable. It is not idea,l but what choice do we have.
pmansson
Well-Known Member
I think I tried cutting the stiff plastic in the not even sharp bends, and might even have cut out small notches/wedges. Can´t remember.
I alsot think that the final result meant that the bonnet/hood would stick up too much, but I might be wrong on this one.
Why can´t the manufacturer get it right, or more appropriately; why doesn´t BMW dictate a supplier to make them as they were back in the 70s, i.e. with those small metal clamps in the lower section?
I am on the case with W&N who I know very well. Similar issue with the U-shaped window channel felts in the doors. They have admitted the shortcoming but say that there is no alternative (which I don´t buy).
Peder
I alsot think that the final result meant that the bonnet/hood would stick up too much, but I might be wrong on this one.
Why can´t the manufacturer get it right, or more appropriately; why doesn´t BMW dictate a supplier to make them as they were back in the 70s, i.e. with those small metal clamps in the lower section?
I am on the case with W&N who I know very well. Similar issue with the U-shaped window channel felts in the doors. They have admitted the shortcoming but say that there is no alternative (which I don´t buy).
Peder
hood seal and alignment
There are two conditions which prevent the hood from alignment besides the hinges and catches :
1. The seal and the 'chicane" whereby the seal protrudes as a hard element rather than the lip. I can feel it. It's as hard as the gutter lip; but it is the seal.
2. The junction of the hood and air box seal, either side, and how they join, taper, or otherwise fit closely together seem to be an issue.
Now I have a very small "welt seal" along the fender/ compartment lips that prevents any possible moisture from gaining an advantange at this condition. But I don't see how that could effect the hood/ air box seal.
There are two conditions which prevent the hood from alignment besides the hinges and catches :
1. The seal and the 'chicane" whereby the seal protrudes as a hard element rather than the lip. I can feel it. It's as hard as the gutter lip; but it is the seal.
2. The junction of the hood and air box seal, either side, and how they join, taper, or otherwise fit closely together seem to be an issue.
Now I have a very small "welt seal" along the fender/ compartment lips that prevents any possible moisture from gaining an advantange at this condition. But I don't see how that could effect the hood/ air box seal.
Possible solutions for unsettling seals other than a Great White
Porsche of the same era used a small plate w/screws where tight compound curves and seals occurred; namely the hood area.
A more modern approach used by restorers today is the judicial use of super glue in the troublesome areas.
It's been a low priority agrevation on my E9 bucket list.
Porsche of the same era used a small plate w/screws where tight compound curves and seals occurred; namely the hood area.
A more modern approach used by restorers today is the judicial use of super glue in the troublesome areas.
It's been a low priority agrevation on my E9 bucket list.
pmansson
Well-Known Member
Hood and seal alignment
I agree with you that on several cars, I have had to cut off the last inch (of the seal on the firewall) on each side. Why? Because the hood/bonnet has been forced upwards just above it. I.e. there has been too much material in the way. As the rear end of the hood is fairly soft, it has caused a small bend on the bonnet above this junction, before the last bit is tied down by the catches.
Besides a visual issue, I don´t see any problems with my solution. Theoretically some engine fumes can seek their way into the fan and interior of the car....
I agree with you that on several cars, I have had to cut off the last inch (of the seal on the firewall) on each side. Why? Because the hood/bonnet has been forced upwards just above it. I.e. there has been too much material in the way. As the rear end of the hood is fairly soft, it has caused a small bend on the bonnet above this junction, before the last bit is tied down by the catches.
Besides a visual issue, I don´t see any problems with my solution. Theoretically some engine fumes can seek their way into the fan and interior of the car....