Fitting new brake and clutch fed hoses - help, please

Cornishman

Cornishman

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I have had the front suspension etc off my E 9 and whilst doing this wanted to change the feed hoses that supply non pressure fluid to the clutch and brake master cylinders. They all seemed to be porous and as the clutch slave cylinder had gone, now new, it is the perfect time to do this. The job is 95% finished, bilsteins, bushes etc and i want to join a classic car rally tomorrow am. But, these three hoses are push fit onto plastic junctions that then clip into the master cylinders and I can't get the new hoses to slide onto these. I have tried hot water on the new W and N rubber pipe, but to no avail.

Anyone got any suggestions how to push them on and then how to get these plastics clips back in afterwards?
Thanks C
 
Cornishman said:
I have had the front suspension etc off my E 9 and whilst doing this wanted to change the feed hoses that supply non pressure fluid to the clutch and brake master cylinders. They all seemed to be porous and as the clutch slave cylinder had gone, now new, it is the perfect time to do this. The job is 95% finished, bilsteins, bushes etc and i want to join a classic car rally tomorrow am. But, these three hoses are push fit onto plastic junctions that then clip into the master cylinders and I can't get the new hoses to slide onto these. I have tried hot water on the new W and N rubber pipe, but to no avail.

Anyone got any suggestions how to push them on and then how to get these plastics clips back in afterwards?
Thanks C
Click to expand...


a hot air gun will help smoothen the hoses so they can be introduced into the pipes, try not to use any grease or vaseline to help introducing the hoses, if no other way, use brake fluid, but better nothing

water is not a good idea
 
P-80 emulsion is the preferred tube mounting aid on our instrument assembly lines. However, for contaminant sensitive lines (like brake lines) it's use is not allowed. Over the years I have experimented with many alternate approaches:

1. Heat guns: can work in skilled hands. Can also completely ruin tubing.

2. Mechanical working of the tube OD with pliers. Chewing works too. Yes, chewing. Try not to get too much spit on the inside of the tube. Works surprisingly well as your jaws do not fatigue nearly as fast as your hands on pliers. Best applied to unused tubing. Note: chewing is not ISO 9000 compliant.

3. Mechanical working of tube ID with needle nose pliers. There are purpose build pliers for this application that have good mechanical advantage, but needle nose will work. Does not work as well as chewing.

4. Purpose built heating fixtures. These are essentially temperature controlled heater blocks that simultaneously heat the ID and OD. Expensive.

All of these methods work on the premise of temporarily softening the tube with heat.
 
Thank you

Thank you for all the great and fast advice, I have tried many of the suggestions in my own blend hpof how to do it and i have managed to get all three hoses at least three quarters onto the plastic fittings, and these then back into the relevant master cylinders. I am worried if this is enough so I will pressure test with a pressure bleeder and let you know. For sure being in further would make me feel happier, perhaps a garage is called for on this task.
The fluid Reservoir was lined with black slime in the bottom, where does that come from? I have cleaned it away and plan to flush the entire system.
Best wishes and thanks again.
C
 
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