Floorboard replacement

mdf

mdf

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Richmond, Virginia
I'm thinking about putting new floorboards on my otherwise pretty perfect CS. I see that new floorboards are offered by Mike Pelly at http://www.dagsites.com/e9_floor_pans/

Questions for those who have tackled this job...

What does this job entail?

What are the potential pitfalls?

How long does this job take to do? (days?weeks?months?)

Thanks in advance ..
 
reply from Mike Pelly

I installed the very first set in my own coupe. I actually had Peter Sliskovich (aka coupeking) weld them in for me and he did a superb job. Many of my customers have commented over the years that they end up cutting the floor pans into smaller pieces because my replacement pans are larger than the rust area. Most rust occurs in the lowest sections including the gutters that run in an "X" position on both sides of the 6" circle centered in the middle of the pan. I have many photos of different jobs. The rear pans are easier to install and can be overlaped over the old pans for welding. While you are there, you should install the sound deadening material and a good paint job with POR 15 of some similar product. We used Marine grade paint designed for tug boats. The car has less road noise now. If the rust in minimal, blast it out and cover with paint. If you have holes, then replace. Send me photos of your pans if you want my opinion...I have actually talked many potential customers out of replacing their pans because the rust wasn't that bad. It often looks worse than it is. If you are a decent welder, it's hard to screw up. One of the biggest hassles is removing the thick overlay material. I'll be happy to post pics, but I couldn't figure out how to post last time I tried. I can send email to anyone interested in photos. I have tons showing various floor pan projects. Mike Pelly (Orange County CA)
 
Mike Pelly had written: "I have actually talked many potential customers out of replacing their pans because the rust wasn't that bad. It often looks worse than it is."

Mike:

Would you clarify the above statement a bit?

I suspect that my coupe falls into the category of needing some repair, but not a full pan replacement - rust is seems limited to the fronts, around those circular clean-outs. The rectangular depressed areas around the clean-outs are thin, but the rest of the floor seems OK.

So, when you see a car that doesn't need a full pan, what do you typically suggest as an alternative? Is a smaller repair section - perhaps one that just replaces the depressed rectangular area with the "X" reinforcement - the typical solution? Or, are you referring to cars with so little damage that just media blasting + POR15 is a sufficient fix?

Thanks!
 
reply from Mike Pelly

Many of the pans I sell get cut up because they only need part of the pan and there's no need to replace the entire pan. As you mention, the area around the circle is usually the worse, along with all the lowest points but in some cases I tell customers just to sand, paint and add filler. By the time you seal both sides with sound deadening material (inside) and undercarriage sealer (outside) you can hide a lot of error. Once you scrape away the rust and add primer you will know if you need to replace.
Most people who inquir really need to replace and for fitment and looks they can't go wrong with my pans. The photobucket site I added includes various stages of rust in pans.
 
Jay-I notice you live nearby. Let's meet at cars and coffee so I can take a look at your pans. BTW, you joined the forum the day after me (4/2006)
 
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