foiled again!!

H

hyochem

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co springs, goliad/corpus, tx
everything is hooked up and ready to start after 17 years... oil pressure light went off just like u guys said it would, timing is set, etc and... the distributor rotor is missing! are these readily available at autozone or do i have to order them from one of the specialty BMW sites? thanks
 
there are a couple of different rotor 'profiles' out there. some have a 'rev limiter' that don't fit the cap, too tall, unless you have that cap. Guess how I learned....

look for a number on your distributor that may guide your choice.
when in doubt, buy them all, see which fits, then return the unused items.

HTH
-shanon
 
I wouldn't count on the chain stores. Try a local independent import parts store that carries a good selection of Bosch parts.
 
Please tell us how you managed to set the static ignition timing without having a distributor rotor.
 
?? just aligned that big slot in the distributor shaft (whatever its called, the thing that the rotor sits on) with the notch in the distributor body (turned it 1.4" counterclockwise and slid it into place, rotating the shaft so that the slot lined up w/ the notch. i don't profess to have done it correctly. if the intent of that comment was to criticize me... thanks. i dont have any experience w/ distributors, i just tried to follow the instructions in the old and non-specific repair manual that came w/ the car
 
Odds are you don't have the static timing correct. Once you get a rotor, mark the distributor body with the position of the #1 contact in the cap (there may be a little mark from the factory, I can't remember). Set the engine to TDC, the insert the distributor to line up the rotor contact with your mark. The ending position of the distributor is not critical, but if memory serves the factory position puts the #1 wire somewhere between 12:00 and 3:00.

Also, be sure you have the wires arranged in the correct firing order. The firing order is cast into the valve cover; it's the string of numbers marked "Zundfolge".

Cheers,
 
volecewest, im pretty sure that's what i did. the manual instructs you to put the engine at TDC, turn the rotor 1.4" counterclockwise from the notch in the distributor body (being the one that you mentioned you were not sure was there or not, where the #1 contact is, then insert the distributor, which will turn the shaft to where the contact on the rotor lines up with the notch. fortunately, the wires were allready connected and the lines have become so hard that you can't arrange them any way but the correct way (ha!) but the harness will be replaced soon, thanks for letting me know what the numbers above the zundfolge mean, i wasn't aware
 
Even if the spark plug wires are stiff, it still would be worth the excercise to verify the firing order. If they are the original wires, they may be numbered 1 thru 6.
If you have business end of the rotor lined up with the mark on the distributor housing when the flywheel TDC indicator lines up with the pointer on the bellhousing window, you either have the ignition timed correctly or one crankshaft revolution out. Remember, this is a four stroke engine and the cam and distributor rotate once for every two crankcase revolutions. To verify if the timing is correct, you need to remove the cam cover and see if cylinder 1 or 6 is at the top of the compression stroke.

These illustrations may help.

http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/handbook/p_070.htm

http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/handbook/p_072.htm

It is also worth verifying if the points are working by using a test light. I have found that when engines have not been run for a long time that the points sometimes develop a film that keeps them from making electrical contact, thus no spark. This can be resolved by burnishing the contacts.
 
tom, wish i had seen your post last night, i had to call around a little bit but was basically told exactly what you said there. fortunately the camshaft was in the correct position. the timing was set correctly w/ the distributor rotor pointing at the little mark. the wires are also installed correctly BUT.. now for the bad news...

-no spark
-no fuel
:cry:
today is also my last day in texas for 2 and a half months so the car is gonna have to be fired up by a mechanic. i found a german guy in victoria who professes to have plenty of experience w/ older cars. im basically in over my head here anyways, i had only 2 hours to work on it each night cuz of my rough schedule and really didnt have the time to investigate each problem. plus im pretty sure the wiring harness and fuel pump are bad... furthermore, there is a huge hole in the center of the camshaft cover that goes to something that im unaware of, there's a big square plug connected to the wiring harness that goes to something im unaware of... so anyways, i did what i could and thank you guys SO much for all your help!!
maybe come spring break i can drive it around.. maybe
 
If you want to start the engine and check its general health you should be able to jury rig both the spark and fuel.
First, get the ignition working. Using a jumper wire with alligator clips (so you can easily disconnect) connect the low voltage terminal of the coil that goes to the + supply (not the one that goes to the distributor) directly to +12V. Crank and check for spark. If there is none, burnish the points. Sometimes a rough piece of paper will clean them.
Once you have spark, work on the fuel supply WITH THE SPARK DISABLED. Fill a clean 2 liter pop bottle with fresh gas and connect both ends of the fuel pump to the bottle with some extra hose. Crank and see if the fuel pump is working. If it is, connect the output of the fuel pump to the carbs and crank to fill the float bowls. With the engine at rest, work the throttle linkage while looking down the venturi (you may have to prop the choke plates open to see) and verify that the accelerator pump is squirting gas. Look for fuel leaks, set the chokes, clip the +12V to the coil and crank it. To shut down disconnect the +12V to the coil.
 
tom, you are a wealth of cs knowledge! unfortunately i leave tomorrow morning in the mazda for colorado and i won't be in goliad (where the CS is) tonight. dangit! its up to someone else to start it now... i know its shameful, but thats how it ended up.
 
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