Front disc/rotor noise

[DTZ]

I have a 2800 CS, with a humming noise on the right side only, when the brake pads warm up, typically when coming to a stop.
Her is what I have done so far;
New pads and rotors, new wheel bearings, ball joints and arms.
What am I missing?

 

[deQuincey]

I am missing pictures of the setup and of the process of renewing the mentioned elements
some people say the do things, and they do things, but they make mistakes,

but if the noise is connected to the brakes, I would check what you have not changed, I.e.
brake fluid,
brake lines
pistons and seals

again difficult to help with such little info

 

[Ohmess]

Couple of things come to mind. Are your lug nuts properly torqued?

If so, try lifting the wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. If you hear a slight grinding noise, your front caliper may not be retracting when you release the brake pedal. Explore the condition of the front left caliper.

If it appears to move freely and quietly, then grab the wheel (assuming the car is properly supported) at 6 and 12 and push with one hand while pulling with the other in an attempt to wiggle it. Repeat at 3 and 9. If you have movement here you may have a worn control arm or a bad wheel bearing.

 

[DTZ]

I did the 6 and 12, seem s fine. What I did find was the rear drum on the passenger side was dragging. I had my better half with her head out the window determining where the noise was coming from. we think it might be the the drum. it was discolored due to the heat. So now I am working on the drum issue.
as for the drums, I replaced the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, and rubber fluid hoses..(back only).
The weird part is that the Driver side is fine!
Thank you for the support!

 

[Ohmess]

The issue with the rear dragging might be emergency brake. Did you redo the ebrake when you did the rear brakes?

 

[DTZ]

No, although I loosened it at the front and at the drum area. I had the cylinders rebuilt too. I tried turning them to reduce the diameter of the shoes, but it looks like these are no adjustable?

 

[DTZ]

No, although I loosened it at the front and at the drum area. I had the cylinders rebuilt too. I tried turning them to reduce the diameter of the shoes, but it looks like these are no adjustable?

\

 

[Ohmess]

First check to see that the drum brakes are properly adjusted. I don't have drums on my car, but according to the autobooks manual there is an adjuster on the back of the backing plate. The procedure to do this is on page 114:

https://e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/autobooks_manual.pdf

And the ebrake procedure is on page 115. You didn't mention making this adjustment, and if you loosened the cables at the front this adjustment is required, but do the drum brake procedure first.

 

[deQuincey]

ok good luck

 

[x_atlas0]

If the rear drums aren't your problem, you may want to check the front calipers.

I had a similar problem on a much newer car, it turned out to be uneven pad application caused by one of the caliper cylinders having corrosion while the others didn't. Only showed up when warm, caused me to warp 2 sets of front rotors, incredibly frustrating to diagnose. Since our cars have 4-piston units up front, you may want to check on your caliper pistons and see if they are both applying equally and evenly.

 

[DTZ]

Good Idea. I will re - bleed the front calipers. As for the Drums, there is no adjustments accept the E Brake.
I ordered some new hardware for them. I notice the "bar" was loose, possible ware. I will no know more next week once I re-mount it all.

 

[2000CS]

As mentioned by Chris Ohmes - there is supposed to be adjustment for the "rest" position of the shoes. Can you turn the adjusters with a 17mm wrench or are they seized?

 

[Honolulu]

Brake shoes (in the rear) are adjustable but it's often the case that the adjustment bolt is very tight. Prepare the bolt with some of your favorite penetrating lube. Only an open end wrench will fit on the bolt head b/c the clearance to the shock mount is too small for (most) box wrenches. MAYBE a flare nut wrench will fit, if you have one in the correct size (might be 17 mm).

Note that as shown in the pic (not the drawing) immediately above that the adjusters must be rotated in opposite directions to move the shoes closer to the drum.

I used to adjust the shoes on all my 2002s, first thing. It snugged up very nicely and improved both the foot pedal and handbrake application feel.

 

[DTZ]

First check to see that the drum brakes are properly adjusted. I don't have drums on my car, but according to the autobooks manual there is an adjuster on the back of the backing plate. The procedure to do this is on page 114:

https://e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/autobooks_manual.pdf

And the ebrake procedure is on page 115. You didn't mention making this adjustment, and if you loosened the cables at the front this adjustment is required, but do the drum brake procedure first.

Your right! I was able to turn the nut at the backing plate. No more dragging! Tomorrow is test drive time. I will let you know how it goes! Thanks so much!

 

[DTZ]

Drove it today, works great!
Thanks all!
Now I'm on to the idle, the car is automatic with the Weber conversion. It would nice if there was a retrofit part to stabilize the idle when in gear stopped .

 

[Arde]

Drove it today, works great!
Thanks all!
Now I'm on to the idle, the car is automatic with the Weber conversion. It would nice if there was a retrofit part to stabilize the idle when in gear stopped .

There is one, it is called a 5-speed manual transmission...

 

[DougE]

I have a 2800 CS, with a humming noise on the right side only, when the brake pads warm up, typically when coming to a stop.
Her is what I have done so far;
New pads and rotors, new wheel bearings, ball joints and arms.
What am I missing?

If you haven't replaced the rubber brake hoses it might be time the hoses collapse internally and don't let pressure off of the calipers.

 

[Ohmess]

Yes, do the hoses. And then, make sure you do the ebrake adjustment procedure so you know the emergency brake will work in an emergency. You mention that you loosened it, but did not say you adjusted it.

 

[bluecoupe30!]

Drove it today, works great!
Thanks all!
Now I'm on to the idle, the car is automatic with the Weber conversion. It would nice if there was a retrofit part to stabilize the idle when in gear stopped .

Ah, yes. The CSA, in gear, at a stoplight. I have spent a lot of time at this very thing and it has been my experience that the goal of a sensible idle, when in gear, at a stoplight, can only be achieved AFTER ignition, timing, valve adjustment, carb linkage and the Webers themselves, have been optimized. Each link in this chain is a job in itself. It took me many tries before I was satisfied I had the valves correctly adjusted. The ignition can be a minefield, as there are also wires from coil and the connections to verify. Carb linkage is often out of spec, just play with it and observe. Easy to set right. But those Webers...I found 1 of mine gummed up so much that the mixture adjustment screw was not having any effect at all. Had to chase that thread, clean up and re set as per Weber tuning instructions. In the end, you really can have a CSA that fast-idles at startup, sounds strong at the tailpipe, maintains its idle at a stoplight with no sense of an impending stall, and feels like a well-sorted car. But it is not a simple 1-step operation. Good luck!