Front Sway Bar Mount

decoupe

decoupe

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I'm upgrading the front and rear sway bars and have encountered a problem. The front bushing bracket has a tongue that inserts into a slot that is formed by an extension of the subframe top sheet - seen in the first picture.

IMG00072-20110725-2207.jpg


Unfortunately, at some point in the past this slotted tab broke off and a jury rigged fix using a bolt and some welding anchored the bracket tongue. I'm looking for a short term fix so I can use the new sway bar (safely) and will figure out something more permanent this winter when I pull the engine.

IMG00073-20110725-2208.jpg


Step one will be to grind/dremmel the weld to get the old bar out. I was thinking of a slotted piece of light gauge plate held on by the bolt (a new one that is). Might have to weld along the side of this plate as well.

Think this will work? Any other suggestions?

So much for a simple nut and bolt replacement.

Doug
 
I would clean up the existing yoke-bolt assembly and weld a tab with hole in it that would line up with the makeshift bolt. You could tack weld the tab in place in place using the old bar/bushing set up as a fixture. Then take it out and finish the job cleanly on a bench.
 
Sway Bar Mount

Ed:

It has been pointed out to me (by someone more knowledgeable) that the other slotted tab also appears to have been bent and is likely at risk for failure due to a hard life and too much fun. I won't touch anything until I can pull the subframe and get it on a bench to rebuild both tabs with heavier material. Winter work.

The existing sway bars are 25mm/23mm F/R - Suspension Techniques I think. The new bars are 28mm/23mm - also ST. I will put the new rear bar in - still a 23mm bar but with three positions for the link to adjust for oversteer/understeer.

Thanks for the comment.

Doug
 
Piece of cake but a dirty job. I’d blow 90% of that snot weld off with a cutting torch and then dress the final 10% with various grinders I have. Then I would just extend the steel strap that wraps the rubber bushing down to that extra bolt that someone added for a repair that’s likely stronger than stock which can’t be a bad thing considering the oversize anti roll bars. A piece of 1/8” flat stock welded to the front of the stock U-clamp and running down to that bolt should work fine. If it took me more that 2 hours I’d be half stepping for sure. How much are you asking for your old rear bar, I’m interested ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
 
John Buchtenkirch said:
Piece of cake but a dirty job. I’d blow 90% of that snot weld off with a cutting torch and then dress the final 10% with various grinders I have. Then I would just extend the steel strap that wraps the rubber bushing down to that extra bolt that someone added for a repair that’s likely stronger than stock which can’t be a bad thing considering the oversize anti roll bars. A piece of 1/8” flat stock welded to the front of the stock U-clamp and running down to that bolt should work fine. If it took me more that 2 hours I’d be half stepping for sure. How much are you asking for your old rear bar, I’m interested ? ~ John Buchtenkirch
Click to expand...

John:

Sort of what I have in mind but I'll leave it alone until winter when the motor is out. Both front and rear bars are spoken for locally - sorry.

Doug
 
BarryG said:
Doug , what does ST mean by a " stepped rear spring perch " for the rears.

Thanks Barry
Click to expand...

Barry:

Not a clue what the context would be in this case as the "spring perch" usually is associated with "coil overs" and ST info guy didn't know why the note was added as it is not relevant. He did assure me that the kit was compatible with any of the cars listed including the CS.

Unfortunately they shipped the wrong spherical bearing set (male instead of female) and are Fedex-ing it asap but right now I can't use either front or rear bars so until then...

Doug
 
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