Getrag 265 Output Shaft Leak

Bav3.5

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I have a transmission fluid leak from the output shaft area of a 5 speed Getrag 265. It is leaking pretty significantly after driving as little as 50miles because the fluid is splattered on both sides of the drive shaft tunnel around the area of the output shaft/guibo and it is dripping on the exhaust.

What I have done:
-replaced the shifter selector shaft seal
-replaced the output shaft seal. The seal was set at a slightly different depth than the original.
-followed the Bentley instructions, including using Curil K2 sealant on the output shaft splines and on the back of the nut, but not on the threads (after a thorough cleaning with brake cleaner).

This area is still leaking the same amount as before the seal replacement! I've heard of others having the same issue.

How long does the Curil K2 need to set up before driving? Is there a better product? Any other potential leak areas and where could I have gone wrong?


Any comments or similar experiences would be appreciated. Thank you.

Tim
 
Any scratches on the surface into which the seal is pressed? Sometimes if not done carefully the removal of the old seal with a big screwdriver will gouge the aluminum surface. Condition of the flange surface that spins against the inside of the seal?

Crack in the transmission casing?
 
I would give it to Pete at petes gear shop and have it split and resealed.
250 bucks, do it right one time.
 
The flange surface looked fine and I installed the seal at a different depth than before. I used a seal puller from the inner part of the seal and a thin block of wood against the case (instead of prying a screwdriver against the case), so I think that should be fine. A further look, I think the new seal is fine and the fluid is coming through the splines. I don't know why the Curil K2 didn't work?

Don, thanks for the suggestion. Any transmission shop recommendations in S. CA (LA/Orange County)?
 
The flange surface looked fine and I installed the seal at a different depth than before. I used a seal puller from the inner part of the seal and a thin block of wood against the case (instead of prying a screwdriver against the case), so I think that should be fine. A further look, I think the new seal is fine and the fluid is coming through the splines. I don't know why the Curil K2 didn't work?

Don, thanks for the suggestion. Any transmission shop recommendations in S. CA (LA/Orange County)?

Does this have a reverse light switch at the back and if yes did you check it as the culprit? Clean it really well back there then check it after a short drive.
 
I send tranny's up and down every few months. Just sent 3 down to Paul and Pelly 2 weeks ago. Have a couple more going down next month.
Let me know- costs 75-100 round trip depending where you are for delivery.
 
Thanks for the info/offer Don. I decided to make one last effort which I thought was easier than pulling the tranny again for you to send it to Pete's.

Here's the update, which may help people in the future: The fluid was definitely leaking through the splines vs the seal itself. I used red gel loctite on the spline part of the flange as well as on the back of the nut and the threads this time. The gel was nice since it stayed in place instead of being too runny.

After 200+ miles, it's completely dry. Before, it was leaking after 20mi.
 
Thanks for the info/offer Don. I decided to make one last effort which I thought was easier than pulling the tranny again for you to send it to Pete's.

Here's the update, which may help people in the future: The fluid was definitely leaking through the splines vs the seal itself. I used red gel loctite on the spline part of the flange as well as on the back of the nut and the threads this time. The gel was nice since it stayed in place instead of being too runny.

After 200+ miles, it's completely dry. Before, it was leaking after 20mi.

So, which loctite product did you use?

This thread recommends loctite 270:

http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/5speed/prep.html
 
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